Type R cams(00-01) in stock GSR
I know this has been covered before but I have no got the right information.
Ok to the question, i know that i can put in itr (00-01) cams in my gsr with stock valves and springs. Right? What is going to be the power gain of hp. Is it going to be worth the money ? Do i need to do any thing else when installing the (00-01) itr cams?
i have a 1997 gsr and my mods are cold air intake, skunk2 intake manifold, rs*r headers and exhaust.
Ok to the question, i know that i can put in itr (00-01) cams in my gsr with stock valves and springs. Right? What is going to be the power gain of hp. Is it going to be worth the money ? Do i need to do any thing else when installing the (00-01) itr cams?
i have a 1997 gsr and my mods are cold air intake, skunk2 intake manifold, rs*r headers and exhaust.
well, it depends.. not every car will get the same HP from it.. it depends on air temp, altitude, mods, etc etc etc etc..
Im sure you will see a nice gain, but most of the power will probably be in the upper RPM area
as for cost vs gain, how much are you paying for them? lol..
Im sure you will see a nice gain, but most of the power will probably be in the upper RPM area
as for cost vs gain, how much are you paying for them? lol..
It's a bad idea to use GS-R springs on ITR cams. There are two issues -- one is a valve control issue. You increase your likelihood of floating a valve on the GS-R springs. Also, you won't be safe upping the redline, which you will need to do to take advantage of the new cams. The other issue is that the ITR cams come dangerously close to binding the spring, which is a very bad thing.
One thing you can do is to buy ITR intake springs, put them on the intake cam and move the GS-R intake dual springs to the exhaust side. As an alternative, you could get sligtly more agressvie 'stage 1' cams (made by a number of manufacturers). These will provide slightly better performance than ITR and are generally considered to be a better bang for the buck. These will require aftermarket, not ITR, valvesprings. ITR springs are only good for ITR cams. They will bind even on some mild stage 1 cams.
With stage 1 cams breathing well on a good tune you could see like a 10 or 15 hp improvement over stock. I think stock compression can get above 180 whp on cams like those, but don't quote me on that. Part of that comes from an increased redline and all of it is dependent on tune. You'll definitely need a tune, though, so plan on doing that as soon after the cam install as possible. IMO cams take you to the 'next level' on an all motor build and are definitely worth it if you can back them up with good breathing and a good tune.
One thing you can do is to buy ITR intake springs, put them on the intake cam and move the GS-R intake dual springs to the exhaust side. As an alternative, you could get sligtly more agressvie 'stage 1' cams (made by a number of manufacturers). These will provide slightly better performance than ITR and are generally considered to be a better bang for the buck. These will require aftermarket, not ITR, valvesprings. ITR springs are only good for ITR cams. They will bind even on some mild stage 1 cams.
With stage 1 cams breathing well on a good tune you could see like a 10 or 15 hp improvement over stock. I think stock compression can get above 180 whp on cams like those, but don't quote me on that. Part of that comes from an increased redline and all of it is dependent on tune. You'll definitely need a tune, though, so plan on doing that as soon after the cam install as possible. IMO cams take you to the 'next level' on an all motor build and are definitely worth it if you can back them up with good breathing and a good tune.
It's a bad idea to use GS-R springs on ITR cams. There are two issues -- one is a valve control issue. You increase your likelihood of floating a valve on the GS-R springs. Also, you won't be safe upping the redline, which you will need to do to take advantage of the new cams. The other issue is that the ITR cams come dangerously close to binding the spring, which is a very bad thing.
One thing you can do is to buy ITR intake springs, put them on the intake cam and move the GS-R intake dual springs to the exhaust side. As an alternative, you could get sligtly more agressvie 'stage 1' cams (made by a number of manufacturers). These will provide slightly better performance than ITR and are generally considered to be a better bang for the buck. These will require aftermarket, not ITR, valvesprings. ITR springs are only good for ITR cams. They will bind even on some mild stage 1 cams.
With stage 1 cams breathing well on a good tune you could see like a 10 or 15 hp improvement over stock. I think stock compression can get above 180 whp on cams like those, but don't quote me on that. Part of that comes from an increased redline and all of it is dependent on tune. You'll definitely need a tune, though, so plan on doing that as soon after the cam install as possible. IMO cams take you to the 'next level' on an all motor build and are definitely worth it if you can back them up with good breathing and a good tune.
One thing you can do is to buy ITR intake springs, put them on the intake cam and move the GS-R intake dual springs to the exhaust side. As an alternative, you could get sligtly more agressvie 'stage 1' cams (made by a number of manufacturers). These will provide slightly better performance than ITR and are generally considered to be a better bang for the buck. These will require aftermarket, not ITR, valvesprings. ITR springs are only good for ITR cams. They will bind even on some mild stage 1 cams.
With stage 1 cams breathing well on a good tune you could see like a 10 or 15 hp improvement over stock. I think stock compression can get above 180 whp on cams like those, but don't quote me on that. Part of that comes from an increased redline and all of it is dependent on tune. You'll definitely need a tune, though, so plan on doing that as soon after the cam install as possible. IMO cams take you to the 'next level' on an all motor build and are definitely worth it if you can back them up with good breathing and a good tune.
it wont be a problem until your valve train binds or you slap a valve hella hard.. its NOT safe to rev that high on that head without stronger springs to compensate for the force and speed that the cams will be hitting the valves @ 8k+ rpm.. Cams dont give you permission to rev higher.. They just give you room to grow.. lol..
I mean, yes.. you are lucky.. you are not having any issues, but you most likely will... One time too many, and POW.. then sadface.. lol
better safe than sorry..
There is alot you can do for a while without causing any damage.. but eventually, it could happen.. 100 bucks in valves? or 2-500 bucks in head replacement?
I mean, yes.. you are lucky.. you are not having any issues, but you most likely will... One time too many, and POW.. then sadface.. lol
better safe than sorry..
There is alot you can do for a while without causing any damage.. but eventually, it could happen.. 100 bucks in valves? or 2-500 bucks in head replacement?
also, for the OP. you need to tune your car when you do this. either run a p73 ecu, or a p73 map on a programmable ecu until you can get an even better tune and get the car dialed.
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