Should I stay away from this rebuilt R ?
I took some picture from the R that I looked today.
it is a rebuilt status type R
and the owner claims that it was hit on the driver side
and I saw this bad body work......
it was a good deal, but I am worried that there will be underneath rust due to the poor body work during the rebuilt....
=( please please... give me some advice...

it is a rebuilt status type R
and the owner claims that it was hit on the driver side
and I saw this bad body work......
it was a good deal, but I am worried that there will be underneath rust due to the poor body work during the rebuilt....
=( please please... give me some advice...

Last edited by vanny_david; Dec 17, 2009 at 06:38 PM.
$8400 CDN...
with rebuilt status
i've checked the car thoroughly, everything is all stock
but what the owner (2nd owner, he bought it from a dealer) claimed it got hitted for $3500 with paperwork
From what I saw the history, if the accident was ONLY $3500, the car wouldn't be written off.... and seems he was "fished" for not knowing the history of the car before buying it....
I was curious to take a look behind the fender, but it was raining pretty bad and I did not have the tool with me but from the engine bay, I could tell the car has been hit badly at the fender, door, and firewall area
The dealer that rebuilt the R did a bad welding job with poor cementing on it....
with rebuilt status
i've checked the car thoroughly, everything is all stock
but what the owner (2nd owner, he bought it from a dealer) claimed it got hitted for $3500 with paperwork
From what I saw the history, if the accident was ONLY $3500, the car wouldn't be written off.... and seems he was "fished" for not knowing the history of the car before buying it....
I was curious to take a look behind the fender, but it was raining pretty bad and I did not have the tool with me but from the engine bay, I could tell the car has been hit badly at the fender, door, and firewall area
The dealer that rebuilt the R did a bad welding job with poor cementing on it....
Last edited by vanny_david; Dec 17, 2009 at 06:40 PM.
Do all the other body lines look good? How does it drive? Have any more pictures? More info is needed...
Judging by those pictures, it looks like the car was hit in a critical area. That doesn't mean it's a lost cause, but it may take some work to get it back to "showroom condition." IF it is priced low, it may be worth it. I would take it to an alignment shop though, and see what the suspension measures out to.
Judging by those pictures, it looks like the car was hit in a critical area. That doesn't mean it's a lost cause, but it may take some work to get it back to "showroom condition." IF it is priced low, it may be worth it. I would take it to an alignment shop though, and see what the suspension measures out to.
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Do all the other body lines look good? How does it drive? Have any more pictures? More info is needed...
Judging by those pictures, it looks like the car was hit in a critical area. That doesn't mean it's a lost cause, but it may take some work to get it back to "showroom condition." IF it is priced low, it may be worth it. I would take it to an alignment shop though, and see what the suspension measures out to.
Judging by those pictures, it looks like the car was hit in a critical area. That doesn't mean it's a lost cause, but it may take some work to get it back to "showroom condition." IF it is priced low, it may be worth it. I would take it to an alignment shop though, and see what the suspension measures out to.
but the wrinkles at the driver side firewall really caught my attention
he showed me all tons of repair receipt with only $3500....
yikes, i guess this would be the one time i would say that R would be a good candidate for a RHD conversion, but even that might not save it.
More pics would help, but it looks sketchy as hell from what you have already showed us. I'd personally steer clear based on the info you've given us.
It's obvious that the firewall and driver side of the uni-body has sustained some serious damage. I'm sure you already know that, though. Before I can offer any advice, It really depends what everything else looks like, and what your intentions are with the car.
If the car is complete, the engine is in good condition, and the frame is straight, this car may have a purpose.
Personally, I would buy it for a track car, if the price is right. I would strip it and fix the crappy body work though.
If the car is complete, the engine is in good condition, and the frame is straight, this car may have a purpose.
Personally, I would buy it for a track car, if the price is right. I would strip it and fix the crappy body work though.
It really depends what everything else looks like, and what your intentions are with the car.
If the car is complete, the engine is in good condition, and the frame is straight, this car may have a purpose.
Personally, I would buy it for a track car, if the price is right. I would strip it and fix the crappy body work though.
If the car is complete, the engine is in good condition, and the frame is straight, this car may have a purpose.
Personally, I would buy it for a track car, if the price is right. I would strip it and fix the crappy body work though.
I'm far from being a body man but that looks like total butt! I don't do body work but I can tell when it's done right. It would be enough to make me wait.
if you like civics you could always make him an offer on the car and swap everything over to a cheap but clean civic
sell the parts you cant use like the exterior panels and cut the bare shell up and end the miserable life of that pos
sell the parts you cant use like the exterior panels and cut the bare shell up and end the miserable life of that pos
It's obvious that the firewall and driver side of the uni-body has sustained some serious damage. I'm sure you already know that, though. Before I can offer any advice, It really depends what everything else looks like, and what your intentions are with the car.
If the car is complete, the engine is in good condition, and the frame is straight, this car may have a purpose.
Personally, I would buy it for a track car, if the price is right. I would strip it and fix the crappy body work though.
If the car is complete, the engine is in good condition, and the frame is straight, this car may have a purpose.
Personally, I would buy it for a track car, if the price is right. I would strip it and fix the crappy body work though.
this will be my daily driver, but when I am done with school until april, I will bring it to the track...
=( for $8400, I will pass this aways.... because I don't want to go through all the hassle just to save a few grands and worried the rust and bent frame underneath.
=(
sorry for the late reply
this will be my daily driver, but when I am done with school until april, I will bring it to the track...
=( for $8400, I will pass this aways.... because I don't want to go through all the hassle just to save a few grands and worried the rust and bent frame underneath.
=(
this will be my daily driver, but when I am done with school until april, I will bring it to the track...
=( for $8400, I will pass this aways.... because I don't want to go through all the hassle just to save a few grands and worried the rust and bent frame underneath.
=(
Assuming everything else on the car posted is 100% immaculate, I wouldn't pay much over $5000 for it. I'm drawing that conclusion without seeing any pictures of it, other than what you posted, so take that for what it's worth.
$8400 CDN is a crapola deal for that car. Looks super sketchy and abused. $5k tops. In contrast I got my car for $10500 CDN and there's zero wrong with it and has a clean title.
I fixed a few very minor little things that were worn but really didn't need to be replaced. There's better deals out there. Keep looking.
I fixed a few very minor little things that were worn but really didn't need to be replaced. There's better deals out there. Keep looking.
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