oem gsr girdle on ls block
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From: on the street, WA-OR-CA
Can I use the oem gsr girdle on the ls block? Or would it require modifications other than using the gsr bolts, windage tray and oil pan? If it requires to much modification is there an aftermarket girdle that is inexpensive and doesnt require any machining or modifications?
The motor is 99% assembled thats why I am looking for one that can be used without machining. I really dont wann tear everything down now.
Thanks in advance. All help is greatly appreciated
The motor is 99% assembled thats why I am looking for one that can be used without machining. I really dont wann tear everything down now.
Thanks in advance. All help is greatly appreciated
The main general rule with main caps, no matter if its the same type of block or diff block, is that you never use main caps that didnt originally come with that block.
If you're using other main caps from different blocks you will need to do a line hone on that block to have that main cap even through out the journals. Line honing can cost between $150-300 from qualified machine shops.
If you're using other main caps from different blocks you will need to do a line hone on that block to have that main cap even through out the journals. Line honing can cost between $150-300 from qualified machine shops.
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Is there an inexpensive girdle I can buy to use with the ls mains that wont require me to blow the motor back apart? Its a daily motor but it will see its fair share of 9k rpm so I rather be safe than sorry
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it was my understanding that at high rpms the non girdled bottom end would have premature bearing failure compared to one with the extra support. Hence the reason honda installed them. But any help on this matter is greatly appreciated.
In theory yes, but seriously, I think its overrated/over thought out. If the bearings were properly measured and installed correctly, it should be fine for what you're doing. Its a street car, dont have to over do it.
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So true, my buddy revs to 9K rpm daily w/ his B20/vtec. All he did to the block was install RS machine piston, ARP rod bolts and ACL' STD bearings. So far, 60k miles, no knock, no spun bearings, etc.
Kind of makes me think of that Rod/stroke ratio jazz. On the GSR / B20 Crank engines I've done, they rev just fine w/o worry of the R/S calculation.. What are your thoughts on that, ExospeedAMcrx?
R/S ratio is overrated too. I mean seriously, most setups are street cars. If you really look at R/S ratio, majority of builds here shouldnt have worked in theory.
You have people whine about R/S ratio and theyre just building a commuter car. Seriously folks.
There's some things that are more important than others. Such as knife edged cranks, etc. In some performance/race builds, its something you look into doing. But really street cars? There's no point in spending extra money when you're not going all out on the rest of the build. I'm straight up to people that we help out. Somethings you need and somethings are just not necessary. Save your money in certain areas and spend it somewhere else where it can make a difference.
You have people whine about R/S ratio and theyre just building a commuter car. Seriously folks.
There's some things that are more important than others. Such as knife edged cranks, etc. In some performance/race builds, its something you look into doing. But really street cars? There's no point in spending extra money when you're not going all out on the rest of the build. I'm straight up to people that we help out. Somethings you need and somethings are just not necessary. Save your money in certain areas and spend it somewhere else where it can make a difference.
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It is a street car, but a very abused one. It does see some strip time as well. Where would you draw the line and say yes this motor/car setup should have a girdled bottom end. Dont get me wrong Im happy to hear its not really neccesary, saves me some money. But I would like to know where you think the line should be drawn for future reference.
We've made 900hp on an LS/VTEC on 38psi boost taking it up to 10K RPM. Stock main caps. Never had issues with bearings on these type of setups.
It is a street car, but a very abused one. It does see some strip time as well. Where would you draw the line and say yes this motor/car setup should have a girdled bottom end. Dont get me wrong Im happy to hear its not really neccesary, saves me some money. But I would like to know where you think the line should be drawn for future reference.
My buddy drives about 50 miles a day, round trip for work. He drives like a maniac, hitting redline constantly, passing up cars.
Drags the crap out of it on weekends at the local strip.
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