Down to the nitty gritty with the bugs! I would like to thank the installer for being as meticulous in his work and methodical on how he approached this install even never having done this swap before. He and I have done alot of searching in making sure this is done right and I appreciate the level of involvement that his shop has allowed me.

I was told by the installer that it has an erratic idle while still cold. When it finally warms up it acts significantly better. I've done a search and have come up with a list to narrow down the cause. I'll list it to help make this issue more search friendly for others. This is from most likely to least likely.

-Loose vaccuum hose or cracked / dry rotted. I.E. vaccuum leak. Use a shot of carb cleaner at fittings, if RPMs jump you just might have found a leak.

- IACV(Idle Air Control Valve) clean the filter screens

-FITV(Fast Idle Thermo Valve) from the pic I've seen its a brass ball surrounded by a white nut like device that could be cleaned and tightened down a little (not TOO tight though)

-Bleed coolant @ thermostat

-PCV valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve) Clean or replace

-Check TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) voltage. Voltage should be .5v @ idle and 4.5v @ WOT (Wide Open Throttle).

-If aftermarket intake manifold installed, see if their are any unused vaccuum connections open, if their are any cap them off if not needed for anything else.

Here is the kicker. As previously stated it acts better after its warmed up. That, in my mind removes almost all the possibilities as majority of these issues would occur regardless if the engine is warmed up or not. Here is what I believe could still be the issue:

-FITV needs cleaning and tightening
-TPS adjustment
-Possibly PCV valve replacement/cleaning.

I ask the community on thier take on the situation as my mechanical experience is limited to the most basic things. Anything that I missed or what I've listed and thrown out as a possibility that could still cause this, please let me know. Thanks in advance!

 

Check vacuum hoses first then bleed your coolant. It's probably the coolant though.

 

Here is the deal, the dizzy that was provided by the engine company was bad. It was tossing dizzy codes left and right as well as CEL 36 (traction control). The shop swapped out that P13 for one that didn't have the traction control module and no more CEL 36.
The dizzy was unable to keep proper timing between full retard all the way to full advance so the shop gave me a standby until the engine company could send a replacement. That one lasted me JUST long enough to get home (a 50+ mile trip back). I'm sick and tired of messing with those things. I recall that a 93-01 civic dizzy is the same (internal coil). If I'm wrong on the year range please let me know.

 

cvc dizzy won't fit

 

Also forgot to mention that this OBD1 ECU was tossing a VTEC pressure switch code so we installed a pressure switch, which cleared that up.

So what will then? The ECU was trying to track down the crank sensor from the dizzy thats why we went back to an internal coil. Can we buy a brand new internal coil H22 dizzy?

 

here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-...Q5fAccessories

 

Accord, not civic.

As for your idle, I would clean the IACV and FITV and replace the oring gaskets.

Before you bleed the coolant, you might as well replace the thermostat.