ok got a 90 sedan and i just replaced the DRIVERSIDE spindle/hub assembly. I bolted everything back together and now my car veers off to the LEFT pretty bad. when i was installing the spindle, i had the wheels turn to the left about halfway to hard over and im assuming when i put the spindle on, the passenger side was moved further to the left?

other than that i replaced my pads in the front, now when i drive i hear a whistling coming from the driverside wheel. i know its the brakes because when i press the brake, the noise goes away.

im not sure which of these 2 caused my alignment issue, on one hand i think the spindle totally jacked up the passenger side tire giving more negative camber over the driveside, making it drift to the left.

but i also think the driverside pads may be catching the rotor slightly causing the whistling and having the driverside tire spin a little slower than the passenger, causing the drifting to the left.

 

did you switch out the whole knuckle?

did you use a new rotor or the old rotor?

did you use a new caliper?

 

this is all on the passenger side, the spindle i got came with the rotor.

driverside all i replaced was the pads.

spindle/knuckle i get confused with. i replaced everything from the UCA ball joint all the way to the LCA ball joint.

did NOT replace any arms that attach to the spindle/knuckle.

 

you absolutely need an alignment when you replace something ike a knuckle. that should be obvious and why its turning.

check to see if your calipers are also seized. it happens often when you push an old piston back.

my concern with some of the questions was that the sedan rotors are different than the civic rotors. the calipers are different too to fit the thicker rotor of the sedan, even tho they use the same pads. but it doesnt seem to matter based on your answers.

 

sedan calipers, sedan pads, sedan rotors.

also the sedan pads ARE NOT the same as hatch pads. so yea i will get an alignment, but i first need to sort out my camber issue, check it out look at the wheel differences.

notice how the driverside tire is more "upright" as the passenger side tire sags inwards at the top.

 

x2 on the alignment...also check them front lca bushings and make sure they aint bad...!!!

 

Definetly needs aligned. Get a camber kit to fix the wheel having some negative camber (yes I realize there is a sticky that says you don't need a camber kit, but don't beleive everything you read online). Once everything is aligned, i'm sure it won't pull to the left. Also when you put new brakes on a car, sometimes you will hear some slight noise until the pad is worn in a little, drive it for a couple days and if it's still making a noise, check the caliper and make sure it slides freely.

 

chorizo, my passenger side LCA balljoint is pretty tight, none of the bushings seem to have play. but before i get an alignment i will get new UCA's and ALL bushings and balljoints for both sides.

 

if you want to get good quality balljoints and stuff i would go with Moog from www.rockauto.com like i did and they offer a lifetime warranty...i got a discount code from them as well if you want it...!!!

 

good pricing on that stuff, bout 10 bucks per balljoint i cant beat that! i'll probably get some energy bushings and then be done with it. PM me that code will ya?

 

I would like that code as well chorizo, I need to upgrade my suspension bits before my form and function coilover go on later this month

 

so this sounds like a good plan?

-new tires to sit until i get my alignment.
-new ball joins, LCA, UCA and steering arm (ball joint in the middle of spindle)
-new bushings, UCA, LCA
-possibly new UCA on driverside to hopefully fix my positive camber
-4 wheel alignment

should i put on the new tires AFTER the alignment or before hand? i'de replace everything else before i put on the tires tho.

 

Rock Auto code expires 11/08/2009
21922931833997

 

i wouldn't get $10 balljoints...the Moog balljoints are $30 each and are built really well unlink them $10 garbage lbj...!!!

 

the upper balljoints on that site are EXPENSIVE!!

 

the upper balljoints are connected to the uca's so you will need to get the entire uca assembly...i got the Dorman brand from them for $53 each since they came with a lifetime warranty...!!!

 

90-91 the uca ball joint is pressed in. your thinking of 88-89 which are WELDED to the uca.

im pretty sure thats the culprit tho..makes since that one is good and the other is all fcuked

 

i have a 91 and the balljoint is welded to the uca...my old 88 ef sedan had the balljoint welded as well...!!!

 

haha really? i've read this in a few different places, *here on HT specifically). no surprise if the info is a little wrong.

but yea im trying to think of how to do this, im gonna spend a **** load of feria this weekend.

- 195/50/15 brand new falkens $160
- alignment $60
- ball joints $20 lower, $30 upper = ~$120 or so
- labor for shop to replace ball joints $????

besides that, im still riding on blown Monroe Sensatrack struts from Star Auto. since i didnt have my receipt they wont validate my lifetime warranty. i've already gotten 2 brand new sets from them in the past year!! not to mention some shitty ebay coil overs.

im gonna make some extended top hats for the front this weekend **** it, i have the welder i just need some ~1" diameter piping from home depot. at least this will improve my ride a little bit until i can get some quality struts.

i dont want to get into a debate, but im thinking about tokico whites, konis are like $40 MORE per strut so i dont know.

then either skunk 2 coil overs or GC's. i dont care which brand, just concerned about the spring rates between the two. which will be better for slammed ride height.

 

if you want a slammed look and want to trade them skunk2 coilovers then i got a excellent set of Sprint (1000) lowering springs that have a 2.50F & 2.25R that i want to trade because i dont want my car that slammed...im running them on a set of Tokico HP blues as of right now...!!!

 

i dont have the skunk2's yet..want my ebay coil overs? haha

i'll buy them from you tho...you havent seen my car in person, i think i have more than a 2 1/2 inch drop. i like when my fender covers the tires slightly.

 

im not down with the egay coilovers and would really like to get a trade for a set of brand name coilover sleeves...last time i put egay coilovers on the rear i was bouncing from lane to lane on the long trips to los angeles on the freeways...!!!

 

alright, just let me know whats up. im gonna ride on these blown out ****'s until i can afford some illuminas. actually ill probably get the fronts before the rears just so i can have a little bit better ride.