bad MAP cause s100 limp mode?
setup:
D16Z6-93 civic ex
75mm vitaras
crower valve train
zex 59300
twin scroll mani
two tial 38's
holset HX35
Precision 880's with 10w 10ohm resistors
walbro 255
blox fpr
hondata s100 on P28
GM 3 bar map
ok.. i have my car together (finally after 4 years) and it will start but wont rev past about 2500 and revs SUPER rich (cant run more than 1minute before my eyes burn from gas fumes out of the exhaust). opened up the ECU and it flashes on for 3 seconds and off for 1 non stop.
i dont have access to s200 and taking it to the local tuner is not an option right now so i've started checking stuff. I first checked my GM 3 bar map sensor (p#12223861), and i got 5.04v input, and only .04v out. i understand that it is supposed to be 1.68v at atmospheric pressure. i bought another one, but it ended up reading between 4.99 to 5.03 out so its bad too (GM sucks lol) and the parts store is out until like next thursday.
also, i put everything electronic back to stock. took the resistors out of the injector wiring, and added the stock map plug back to the harness, used my spare P06 (92-95 dx-non vtec) and i got code 3 which is map which makes sense after i checked what the stock maps voltage is supposed to be because i still had the 3bar plugged up. X( ) so i plugged in the harness to the stock map and now the car surges and goes from stoich to lean and back and i'm still getting code 3 but the map was fine when i took the mani off the last motor (unbolted the mani and bolted it on, never touched the map short of unplugging it-i dont know of any reason it should fail now)
now you know my situation and about everything i do.. so,
1. can the bad map make s100 go into limp mode?
2. if its not the map, what COULD cause it?
2. do i have to clear the codes from my stock ecu or does it do that by itself? if so how do i do it?
3. what could be causing the surge?
any help is GREATLY appreciated... and i'm realizing QUICKLY why s300 would be so nice..
D16Z6-93 civic ex
75mm vitaras
crower valve train
zex 59300
twin scroll mani
two tial 38's
holset HX35
Precision 880's with 10w 10ohm resistors
walbro 255
blox fpr
hondata s100 on P28
GM 3 bar map
ok.. i have my car together (finally after 4 years) and it will start but wont rev past about 2500 and revs SUPER rich (cant run more than 1minute before my eyes burn from gas fumes out of the exhaust). opened up the ECU and it flashes on for 3 seconds and off for 1 non stop.
i dont have access to s200 and taking it to the local tuner is not an option right now so i've started checking stuff. I first checked my GM 3 bar map sensor (p#12223861), and i got 5.04v input, and only .04v out. i understand that it is supposed to be 1.68v at atmospheric pressure. i bought another one, but it ended up reading between 4.99 to 5.03 out so its bad too (GM sucks lol) and the parts store is out until like next thursday.
also, i put everything electronic back to stock. took the resistors out of the injector wiring, and added the stock map plug back to the harness, used my spare P06 (92-95 dx-non vtec) and i got code 3 which is map which makes sense after i checked what the stock maps voltage is supposed to be because i still had the 3bar plugged up. X( ) so i plugged in the harness to the stock map and now the car surges and goes from stoich to lean and back and i'm still getting code 3 but the map was fine when i took the mani off the last motor (unbolted the mani and bolted it on, never touched the map short of unplugging it-i dont know of any reason it should fail now)
now you know my situation and about everything i do.. so,
1. can the bad map make s100 go into limp mode?
2. if its not the map, what COULD cause it?
2. do i have to clear the codes from my stock ecu or does it do that by itself? if so how do i do it?
3. what could be causing the surge?
any help is GREATLY appreciated... and i'm realizing QUICKLY why s300 would be so nice..
1. If the eprom chip is not properly installed, then yes.
2. Improperly soldered socket or 4 pin header
3. You can clear the codes by simply unpluging the ecu from the vehicle.
4. A vacuum leak or simply tuning.
If your map sensor output signal to the ecu is off then the vehicle is never going to run properly.
You should resolve all of your codes before trying to troubleshoot anything else.
(Higher the voltage, the more manifold pressure the ecu believes you are running, hence more fuel etc..)
Make sure you have the proper 5 volt signal on the yellow wire & ground from the green wire. Then check your white signal wire for the proper voltage. (Stock harness colors)
2. Improperly soldered socket or 4 pin header
3. You can clear the codes by simply unpluging the ecu from the vehicle.
4. A vacuum leak or simply tuning.
If your map sensor output signal to the ecu is off then the vehicle is never going to run properly.
You should resolve all of your codes before trying to troubleshoot anything else.
(Higher the voltage, the more manifold pressure the ecu believes you are running, hence more fuel etc..)
Make sure you have the proper 5 volt signal on the yellow wire & ground from the green wire. Then check your white signal wire for the proper voltage. (Stock harness colors)
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