i got my stock b20 redlining at 7300rpm. the original is at 6300, but i'm running obd-0 pr4 ecu, and on my dyno sheet it doesn't decrease after 6300, in fact it increases all the way to 6900.. ne1 have ne problems with this setup b4? i had a guy tell me this was impossible without breaking something. lol. and it's been like this for over a 2 years now.

 

as long as you are making power that high.
better not be stock rod bolts though. i'd keep it down some if so.

 

uhh.. lol i think they r.. although i havn't taken apaart the motor

 

your just lucky.. with my old stock b20b block and gsr head. i only took it to 7500rpm but had no issue. so as long as its tuned you should be good to go

 

thank you! ohk but wat about valve floating? this guy keeps trash talking me and saying my dyno chart is fake bcuz the motor doesn't rev that high. this is the thread and it's really starting to **** me off!! https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2654023&page=3

 

yeah i think ur tach is reading wrong but b20 are under rated . i love mine but getting vtec soon.

 

The above statement is not true

Tuning doesn't effect parts...like that

Rod bolts need to be upgraded, otherwise over time of reving higher then normal they strech pretty soon, they come undone.. Stay below 7k until you upgrade your rod bolts.

 

From wat I've heard and experienced. They r. But if u look at da dyno sheet it says on it 7300 rpm's.

 

true but i took mine untuned to 7500rpm all day guess its just a matter of luck...people underestimate b20's but its because most of them never had one before...

 

It does not matter where you make power.. Just because you make power up there, doesn't mean the parts on that motor like to rev that high..
Stock ls's rev to 6800~7k.. b20's i believe like the same range, keep it to the stock range until you have the parts to support your revs.. otherwise.. it'll be a more expensive build then what u wanna do.

 

Because you did it, doesn't mean its correct.. Alot of people get lucky, some more then others.. then again people wanna try new stuff, i'm just trying to help this guy keep from slinging a rod through his block..
Btw, i run a b20vtec... nobody's underestimating anything... Stay to the stock rev, unless you've upgraded your rod bolts.

 

its just like me taking my gsr to 8500rpm all day when gsr rev limit is at 8100rpm...you have a good point but if the OP is fine with it then problem solved..he's not building anything with your money

 

I have the rev limiter on my stock B20z (with ARP rod bolts) set to 7200rpms. I did a baseline dyno clearly showing that the HP/TQ falls off drastically above about 6500rpms. The stock valves float like crazy anywhere above 7000rpms (you can actually hear a change in the intake noise); planning to install some Crower II's, springs/retainers to tide me over until a Vtec head goes on.

 

Stock gsrs stop making power at like 7800rpms.. give or take a few hundreds....no reason to rev a gsr any higher then 8144.
But cool, when he post why'd he sling a rod through the block i'm sure he'll think about some random guy on the internet saying its perfectly fine to swing that motor that high.

 

a better way to see it..

gsr 8000 redline --> 8500 rpm = 6.25% more
B20B 6200 redline --> 7300 rpm = 17.7% more

 

Yeah yeah, but at the same time they're 2 totally diffrent motors.

 

well.
blow it up.
just don't forget the pics.