did have this in the hybrid and ek section but have been told to post it here.....

Right i need some help

I have just swapped a b18c4 (uk version of B18C1) into an EK and cannot get it to start
I am stumped into as way

Have have checked all i can think of and it doesn't change anything

- I have fuel and have a spark
- Running a P28 with a B18C4 map
- Have put new earth leads on, cleaned them all up including the thermostat ground.
- New plugs (correct gap), checked leads
- New rotor arm and new dizzy cap
- checked the cam timing (it was out but fixed that)
- played with the ignition timing
- 1 CEL for o2 sensor (away to sort that but it should still start)

Dont know what else to do

Anyone got any ideas ??

 

I have just noticed that when i switch my IGN on the main relay is clicking away (quite fast)

I have just tried another relay (known to work) and it is the same

I have read that this can be due to grounds but mine are all good

anyone got any ideas ?

 

My B18C1 in my EK hatch does this same thing. It will click a little when I first put the car into the ACC position. I used an EX wiring Harness, but it only clicks for a couple of seconds. Then it will start. I was told that it is because I used an EX wiring Harness, instead of the GSR Harness. If I don't wait ten Seconds before I turn it over the Check Engine Light comes on, rendering my Vtec useless... I don't really have an anwswer, for your question, but I hear the clicking in my car and it seems to be comming from where the passenger airbag used to be, or maybe the clicking is comming from the computer..

As far as your swap.. Have you checked the Battery? Starter? If your fuel pump is working and you have spark your motor should start right up as long as it is turning over. Is it Turning Over? That clicking noise could be becaus you don't have enough power i.e. from the Battery I am sure you have checked the voltage but in case you haven't you might check and see what the voltage is. I actually have a voltage meter in my CD player, and it tells me the exact voltage of the battery. It stays between 12volt, and 13.8

 

the battery voltage is fine ive have checked it and charged it

I have also been using a spare battery i have with some jump leads

as for fuel if i disconnect the fuel line and put the ign on i get fuel so i know the pump is working
I can also smell fuel when i am trying to start it


I will try leaving it for a bit and see if the clicking goes away

 

check all your main relays and fuses are working and in the right place/position

 

all fuses are fine
the only prob with the relay is that the main relay keeps clicking continuously

 

it should do that

 

Got this running now
I changed the coil and it started straight away

but im still having a few wee problems
the car is running rough, it is like it is hitting a limiter and not revving very high when moving
It revs freely when stationary
I have no CEL`s so i don't think it is in limp mode

Another problem i have is the rev counter and speedo isn't working
the rev counter sits at about 1.5k when idling but if you touch the throttle it drops straight down
any ideas why it would be doing that ?

Now the battery light is on
but the battery was flat, i started it with a spare battery and a set of jump leads
So i am assuming this will go out when the battery is charged ??
I have it on charge now

Can any one help ???
I want to go out for a run !!!!!

 

The "battery light" is for the charging system voltage, not the battery itself. It will come on when the alternator is not charging at the proper voltage.

You probably have both a bad alternator and a bad battery.

 

I have sussed the battery light now

I forgot to put the alternator belt on
idiot !

 

she is going good now

The battery light was on because i forgot to put the altenator belt on (idiot!!!)
And i have set the timing and she is pulling strong now !

Speedo and rev counter now working aswell