Can't keep the heat down
Ok, I never ask for help on forums but I am tired of beating my head against the wall. I have a Benson signature series B16 sleeved and bored to 84mm running 18 lbs on a GT3076R. I can not keep the heat down as soon as I start driving. It will warm quick and idle at about 185-190 but starts creeping as soon as I start driving. If I get on the interstate it will shoot up and I have to shut it off at about 215. I have tried everything. New headgasket, new waterpump, fluidyne eg radiator. full race ram horn manifold, wrapped with heat wrap. Switched to Evan's waterless coolant to try and combat it. I removed thermostat and all recirculation hoses. I have a temp probe in the spot were the fan switch goes so I can see the water temp going in the engine. That temp was staying around 170-180 while the ect temp shows 212-218. I have the s300 controlling the fan and have it coming on at 180. I have tried many temps. What is really getting to me is the probe showing such a low temp that the fan normally wouldn't even be coming on but the head is overheating. Outside metal temps show 220 on the exhuast side of the head but 190 on the intake side of the head. Before I put the evan's in I flushed the system and then flushed it with vinegar and water to clean up any scaling. When I had the head off everything looked great. No water in oil, no smoke from exhaust. The evan's builds no pressure and there is no pressure in the radiater even when overheating. I bypassed the coolant lines going to the turbo to see if that was the problem and it isn't. I don't understand how I can have 170 water going into a engine but can't get the heat away from the head. I have never asked for help on a forum but I humbly ask for good ideas from you great Honda gurus.
pics of how the radiator is mounted, sound slike an airflow issue as well as you really need to burp the cooling system
i have nightmares when i hear evans coolant. LOL to many bad memories when my sleeves kept sinking and smelling that **** burn
who tuned the car? whats the a/f or egt's look like ?
i have nightmares when i hear evans coolant. LOL to many bad memories when my sleeves kept sinking and smelling that **** burn
who tuned the car? whats the a/f or egt's look like ?
I have a 12" fan. Don't know came on the radiator. As far as a shroud. It has the built in one. I also put another one on the front thinking it might help. (yes, hooked up the otherway) don't think it did. taking it off now. have a 600hp precision on the front and it takes up the entire front opening of the stock bumper. But don't see a way around that one.
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it looks to be possibly a cheap 12" cooling fan that does not flow very well. spend a few bucks and get a 12 or 13" spal cooling fan and have a fan shroud made up for the radiator.
what kind of front bumper is on that car? how big is the front air dam? does the intercooler block the whole opening?
what kind of front bumper is on that car? how big is the front air dam? does the intercooler block the whole opening?
ok ill solve your probelm for you. start by bleeding the cooling system really well and making sure there is no air in there at all, its difficult with a sleeved block to get all the air out.
From there you need to get either a shrouded fan like a FAL or you need to get a zirgo 14" beyond cool fan. this fan is the same size as the radiator so it pulls heat out of the whole rad like a small fan with a shroud does but will flow 2500cfm vs a fal is only like 1250cfm.
next you need to put sheet metal blocking in front of the engine and turbo manifold to redirect al that air to the radiator. this will solve your heat issues if you do all i've listed. you have poor cooling mainly due to air flow but also backed up by a crappy rad fan.
Dont worry alot of us have been there, il telling you all this from experience
From there you need to get either a shrouded fan like a FAL or you need to get a zirgo 14" beyond cool fan. this fan is the same size as the radiator so it pulls heat out of the whole rad like a small fan with a shroud does but will flow 2500cfm vs a fal is only like 1250cfm.
next you need to put sheet metal blocking in front of the engine and turbo manifold to redirect al that air to the radiator. this will solve your heat issues if you do all i've listed. you have poor cooling mainly due to air flow but also backed up by a crappy rad fan.
Dont worry alot of us have been there, il telling you all this from experience
Is that really the issue if the water going into the engine out of the radiator never gets over 190 degrees? I have a probe where the fan switch goes. I mean if I was using a regular fan switch the fan would never even come on.
Like he said (and others) you probobly have air in the system.
Let the car idle for 30minutes with the radiator cap off and monitor the temperature. you can also try squeezing the lower radiator hose rapidly and releasing it... it can burp trapped air free a lot of the time.
Also It's probobly not the issue buy your radiator looks like it has TONS of bent fins...
Also is the DP/dumptube wrapped as well? and where does the Dump tube acutally vent?
Have you tried a heavier mix of distilled water and water wetter?
If you do everything Turbo-LS chances are you're problems will be solved.
Let the car idle for 30minutes with the radiator cap off and monitor the temperature. you can also try squeezing the lower radiator hose rapidly and releasing it... it can burp trapped air free a lot of the time.
Also It's probobly not the issue buy your radiator looks like it has TONS of bent fins...
Also is the DP/dumptube wrapped as well? and where does the Dump tube acutally vent?
Have you tried a heavier mix of distilled water and water wetter?
If you do everything Turbo-LS chances are you're problems will be solved.
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