Hey guys, as stated in my starter build thread, I'm putting a GS-R turbo motor into my Del sol.

Now, I have heard conflicting stories.

I'm kinda on a budget this winter, and I am tossing the idea of building the bottom end or not right now.

It would save me about $800 to leave it stock (110,000KM on engine, NOT miles)

I want to put around 20ish PSI to the engine.

I have heard about 20 people say the stock block will handle it all day no problems, and 20 people say I should build it. My Buddy has a completely stock B20 bottom end that he has thrown 25PSI into, cranking 402WHP for 3 YEARS now without a hitch. He tells me the GS-R block is STRONGER than the B20 block. Any truth to this?

If I don't build it this winter, I will next, I'm just tying to save a few bucks for right now, so I can center my attention to the rest of the project.

your ideas?

What is the most amount of boost I can get away with on a stock GS-R daily driven?

I have a GReddy E-01 Boost Controller, so I can always set boost a tad lower for DD, but I would like to be able to hit around 20 if possible for track days, dyno days.

Any proof is greatly appreciated, what you have run with stock longblocks is more what I am looking for.

Thanks guys!

 

The B18C1 is a good engine. Like other Honda engines, it has a nice forged crank and has been known to hold under "higher" boost (as you mentioned).

With most Honda engines, anytime you don't build your bottom end, you take a chance.

Will it hold? Sure, it might. I've also heard people running stock rotating assemblies with few problems. GS-R's have definitely been known to hold in the area of 10 psi with very few problems. One of my friends was looking at a GS-R that had been boosted for years and it had never been rebuilt or modified besides the turbonetics kit.

However, not all engines are created equal. Parts can just fail, especially when you are throwing boost at them. Your driving style can also affect your engines life. Will it hold 20 psi being beaten up all the time? I severely doubt it.

I would at least make sure its had a good rebuild, and get yourself some ARP headstuds at the very least. Obviously rods and pistons would be nice but we all know how it is to be strapped for cash.

Hope that helped at all and good luck!

 

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I will be installing ARP headstuds, and I will be doing a head gasket (I'm changing valve seals)

I'm aiming for 15ish PSI for daily driving on a .50/.63 turbonetics turbo.

 

a gsr should be able to handle 500hp, thats the sleeves not the internals.

i have never ever seen a stock b20 run 25psi, ever, let alone for 3 years
its true the gsr is stronger due to the b20 have smaller sleves, but i still doubt it will hold 20psi on stock internals,

 

thinner will raise comp, not lower it, you need a thicker hg or oem.

 

Me either, however I have seen it in person.

It hasn't run 25PSI daily driven, but on track days it has.

 

So with a .50/.63 turbo, would 15PSI be an acceptable range for daily driving?

If so, that's where I will sit until next winter when I can build the block.

 

well id set a hp goal instead of a psi goal. and b16s can hold 300whp stock so id say a b18 will hold a lil more then that, maybe 350 or so.

 

oh, now that you put it that way.
i still wouldnt run 15psi on a stock block, im not saying it cant handle it, because i have seen them do it, i personly wouldnt risk it, i would stay at 10-12 psi.

 

Good. Thats a start then. 15 psi is a little strong... but lets say we assume that everything in the engine is in good shape, then I could see it lasting for a while. Also assuming you don't abuse her too much, which can definitely be tempting haha.

Yeah, the sleeves are usually a non issue.

I've never heard of a B20 run that long on high boost, but I have heard of one existing. Crazy stuff.

And yeah, I really don't see 20 psi working out on a longer term basis without some sort of problem. That is unless it is used sparingly.

 

Sparingly is an over statement lol.

20PSI would be strictly for dyno days (bragging rights of course ) and for track days.

Next winter, I will build the bottom end sufficiently, and go from there.

Thanks for the reply guys, greatly appreciated.

I'll see if my buddy has any videos of his B20 (stock longblock) pushing that, cause like you Bwill, I have only seen one do it. This is in an EG hatch as well, as if it makes a difference lol.

 

the psi wont blow ur engine, the hp will. 10psi for example is different on the motor using a 16g turbo compared to a motor running 10psi with a 57 trim.

thats y u set a hp goal not a psi goal

 

i know.
i was simpy telling him.

 

my WHP goal is 400WHP, however, I don't think I want to attempt that on a stock block.

So, with that said, staying OEM, I am looking for MAX (dyno) 350whp, and prolly 300ish for daily driving.

I am still kinda new to the turbo scene, I have owned a turbo car for 3 years, however, I never looked into trim level Vs. engine calculations.

Is there a generic formula?

IE. B18C1 + .50/.63 turbo + 15PSI = XXXXWHP?

 

if u want 400whp id go with rods and pistons, but if u can get 300 outta it stock. and theres a lot of things to consider with trying to figure out a whp range a turbo will get u. dp size, exhaust size, engine condition things like that. if i was you id go to the F.I thread and look at some of the threads there. and see what turbo people are running and what whp range they are putting out. hope that helps, and good luck

 

Thanks, I appreciate the help and the good wishes.

I will extensively research this, as the ca won't be hitting the road for the next 6 months or so.

Stay tuned to my build thread for updates, should be pulling my Z6 turbo engine within a week.

Thanks again guys.

Mike