yeah, so me and my friend were putting on my new shocks and coilovers. We were doing fine, all the bolts slowly started to get harder and harder to break loose. we got so lucky not breaking any.

UNTIL THE LAST ONE.

My lower control arm bolt snapped. then a closer look revealed the backside of the bolt had j.b weld on it. So basically we were twisting the metal until it snapped.

so we were pissed.

My question is, what am i gonna do? we got everything put back together. I was able to cautiously drive my car home.

I heard muffler shops around here deal with that stuff. Can i have them just weld it? until i get new lca's?

What are my options.? I really need to have this car drivable ASAP.

thanks

 

get a new bolt.

 

i cant just get a new one. because the other one is basically stuck on there from the back

 

try drilling it out.

 

fudge

 

 

just replace the dam lca

asap

junk yard it

 

would welding it be okay?

kinda ghetto, but dang.

 

i bet what your gooing to par for the welding you can just get a lca at the junk

 

does it need to be a crx lca? or any ef lca?

 

im pretty sure their the same.

but jsut to be safe get a crx one

 

our junkyard has no crx's. I live in a very small town. '

Our junkyards got chevys n fords n pickip trucks

 

oh **** didnt think about that..

well ****.

weld the motha fuuhkkah

and let us know how it goes

 

Same thing happened to me. IIRC, had to cut off the other end also with Dremel. Then drilled out both ends. Can't remember if I had to support the LCA, but make sure your current strut/spring/coil isn't pushing down on the LCA first. PITA, but the drilling part isn't too bad. If you didn't PB Blast it, do that first next time. I soaked the bolts a couple of days in advance and more than once. Still got some busted bolts.

 

wait, so is the nut that is WELDED to the bottom of the strut broken off the welds so it spins? or did the BOLT actually break? Cause if its the nut then just put a pair of vice grips on it and then get the bolt out, but if its the broken bolt, cut the rest of the bolt so the LCA can move freely and then pound it out of the LCA and get a new bolt.

 

if i were you, I would drill it out, weld the hole. then drill it smaller and retap the hole for a new oem bolt the correct size.

It may be alot of work but it would be better to have it done right.

If you dont have access to a welder, I would drill it out and use one of those retap kits from autozone where you tap it larger, insert the metal coil and use an original bolt.

before you start drilling try grinding off the JBweld to see if you can get the remainder of the bolt out without damaging the original threads

 

i dropped it off at a shop today. so i will have it in a little

 

not sure what they are gonna do though

 

Since when is welding ghetto? Welded parts is what your ENTIRE car is held together by... or you mean YOUR welds are ghetto???

Everything metal is either bolted, welded, or both. Everything around you has parts welded on… look at your cell phone… it has welds all over it (AKA solder)…

 

well i just went and picked it up. the shop drilled out the bolt and replaced it, so its done right,

and my new skunk2 setup is awesome

 

It was a eazy fix that you could of diy. i put a picture of a drill for a reason.