Ok. I've about had it with this Code 23 on my h22 swap in 94 accord EX. I've changed the sensor 2 times, checked the wiring for knock sensor and all appears to be wired correctly. I am still getting this code and I can't figure out why. My car goes into limp mode once CEL goes on and it may backfire. Car runs fine only until limp mode kicks in. Please help.....

 

Is your H22 stock & what ECU are you using? Chipped or stock ECU?

Is code 23 the only code you are getting? Next time the CEL comes on leave the car running and try the self diagnosis procedure. There may be a soft code hiding behind your code 23. Other than that, I would say that it is a wiring issue. Unless you are running aftermarket internals. If you are running aftermarket internals you will most likely need to disable the knock sensor.

 

I am running a P13. With stock internals. I have have an intake and exhaust. No other codes are showing up..

 

What kind of wiring problem am I having? I made sure there is continunity between KS connector and D3. I checked if there was a short by seeing if there was a ground from D3 to any "Good Ground" and there was no issue with this. If you could please elaborate more on wiring because I think I've checked the wiring enough but if you know something that I'm not doing let me know. At this point I'm willing to try anything, I'm killing mad fuel driving around with this limp mode.

 

So you have a stock H22 with a new OEM KS and stock ECU. Pin D3 doesn't go to ground and you have continuity between D3 and the 2P connector at the KS. All that is left is to try a new ECU. Are you able to get your hands on another P13 ECU?

 

Another ECU is going to be hard. I dont know anyone with another swap or P13. Thanks for the info. Since that 2P connector only has 1 pin where is the ground actually coming from? The sensor itself is a ground? I have a shield wire going into that 2P connector but only 1 pin is actually being used. The knock sensor only has 1 pin sticking out of it so even though its a 2 pin connector only 1 pin is being used. The connector can only be inserted 1 way so I'm sure its hitting the right pinout. I guess my next try is a ECU. IF you have any other information it would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone else have the same problem????

 

How about I get a chip with KS disabled. Does that help?

 

Yes if you get a chipped OBD1 ECU with the knock disabled on the ROM. That will indeed get rid of your code 23 problem. Unfortunately the P13 is not a chip-able ECU.

 

Has this engine ever run properly for you?

Before you go looking for a new ECU. I suggest you take both covers off the P13 and see if there are any visual cues that something might be fried.

 

Im a computer geek by heart so looking at the board looks like nothing is fried. I just dont want to go through the hassle anymore. My boy said he knows someone that might be able to swap to test. IF it works then kool if not i dont know. Might get some type of ECU with KS disabled. Recommend any?

 

Whoever did this swap can tell me. That 2P Connector that goes to the KS, does the wire have to be shielded? If shielded, does part of the shielded wire need to go to a ground or can I just take 1 wire connect it to this 2P connector and run it directly to Pin D3 on the ECU.

Right now I have the shielded wire connected to the 2P connector and part of the shielded I connected to a body ground somewhere near the firewall. Someone tell me I'm doing this wrong and I just need 1 wire directly from 2P connector to D3....

Anyone. Anyone. Please help........

 

Any chipped OBD1 ECU w/VTEC and IAB control will work. No need to pay big bucks for a P28 or a P72. I, along with others, can chip a cheaper P06. Convert it to VTEC w/IAB control and no knock sensor. Using a few resistors, capacitors, jumpers, a switch, latch and an EPROM chip. For under $200.


The shielded wire should be connected to an ECU/sensor ground junction box.

Edit* the shielded wire should be connected to the wire harness/PGM-FI ground, G101. Its' the one attached to the thermostat housing.

 

Can you give me an example of ECU/sensor ground junction box. That maybe my problem then... I have a shield wire going directly from the 2P connector to the D3 Pin on the ECU. I opened up a piece of the shielded wire and connected a wire to it and bolted it to a "good" body ground...

 

Yeah I just edited my above post. The shield wire should have a small wire soldered onto it before the Knock sensor. That wire should then run to the main ground for the engine harness. It's the one attached to the thermostat housing.

 

Is there an open spot on the connector for that shielded part of the wire or do I vampire it onto some other wire?

 

Oh. Where does the other side of the shielded wire go to then... ?

 

When it comes to shielding wire it only needs the one ground connection. That's it's purpose in the circuit. To ground any stray signals so they don't interfere with the internal wires signal.

All of the shielded wires I just ran for my wire harness stop about 3" from the ECU. The other end stops about the same distance from the sensor connector. Then it is soldered to an actuall ground wire and it goes to an ECU/Sensor ground.

 

I'm currently running a p28 chipped with H22 base. I didn't need to hook up Knock or IAB sensors. It doesn't support EGR system; therefore, you can remove its components for a cleaner look.

 

If you have tested the wiring and replaced the knock sensor. The next step is looking at replacing/testing your ECU.

 

anyone Agree? Disagree? Provide info? Anything?