I have a 1996 Honda Integra Type R. The RPM gauge goes to 10,000. The car revs to about 9,500. I have a problem where when the car is cold it can take the revs (but I don't really push it when its cold because there is no VTEC until its warm). But what happens is when the car warms up the highest the car will rev is 3,500 - 4,000 and the the RPM gauge just bounces as if it is at its limit for the gear I am in (and it does this in all 5 gears. And it is at this point that the check engine light comes on. Solutions?

 

I'm not a mechanic. I'm only wagering a guess. It sounds like oil pressure. I think the computer needs to see a certain oil pressure before vtec engages. Redlining the car when it's cold though is never advised.

 

this is normal. vtec does not work until the car is warm. please let it warm up until you start beating on it.


this is b/c the soemthing is wrong and it is running in limp mode. you need to see what the check engine codes are and that should point you in the right direction to the problem.

 

its in limp. let the car warm up, and then it will be fine. if it does go into limp, just pull over and shut your car off, then go drive for a bit and it SHOULD be fine, if not, then your getting into another problem.

 

My problem is not with VTEC. When the car gets warm the RPM gauge does not go past 4,000. What happens is it bounces (like it has hit limiter), and it is at this point that the check engine light comes on. Any sugestions as to how to read the code? It flashes 3 - 4 - 8 - 9 - 1 (long) - 5

 

You should be able to take your car to any repair shop or oil changer place and they have an OBD2 diagnostic tool. I've never been charged to have them plug it in and read the code for me whenever I've had a problem.

 

On the passenger side under the glove box there is a wire with a square blue end and 4 plug terminals on it. You can use a paperclip or a small bit of wire to jump across one of the terminals on the left of the square end to one of the terminals on the right of the square end. This will cause your check engine light to flash a code.
Turn your key forward without starting. Count how many times the check engine light blinks. Count the long blinks then count how many short blinks. Then post that here.

 

i think he already did.

 

I did pose the blinks. Its 3 short, then 4 short, the 8 short, then 9 short, then 1 long, then 5 short.

 

Sorry I must have missed that or posted at almost nearly the same time as he posted that. It's hard to interpret it the way he has written it down but each long is 10 and each short is 1. So 5 long would be 50 and 3 short would be 3 = 53. See http://www.zealautowerks.com/ecu_codes.html for code meanings...

 

Hi OP we must keep posting within minutes of eachother.

Code 3 MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Cause: bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor / boost

Code 4 CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor) Cause: bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor

Code 8 TDC Sensor (Top Dead Center) Cause: bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor

Code 9 CYP Sensor (Cylinder) Cause: bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor

Code 15 Ignition Output Signal Cause: missing or defective ignition output signal


So my question is what work has recently been done on the car? Have you changed anything or added anything? Particularily anything electrical like a sound system. OR have you changed the distributor? Do you know how to check to make sure it's top dead center?

 

Well when i add them together i get 39 and i dont see 39 on the list

 

That's not how you add them up. It's not linear like that... If it flashes 3 times short that is code 3. If it then flashes 4 short its code 4 etc. The only time you add is if you have X number of longs and then X number of shorts close together.

 

Ok thanks. I'll try this tomorrow if anything I'll be back to ask

 

I solved the problem with only being able to rev 4,000. It was the distributor wiring. Thanks. Only one more thing though. I have a problem with surging. When I start the car its fine. Idles 800-1100 rpm. After the car is driven and comes to a stop and idles it surges from 1500 to 3500 rpm. Solutions?

 

clean ur Idle Air Control Valve

 

Do you mean clean the lines that run to it? Becuase i changed it, it stopped for about a week and came back? Or does that mean that the IACV isn't the problem?

 

The surging can be caused from a variety of causes. Everything from a leaky vacuum line to electrical issues again. Here's a quick check list..

Is the car throwing any more codes or a check engine light? We could guess all day but that will really tell you what's up.

Is there a lot of black soot on the bumper above your exhaust?

Have you tried pulling a plug to see if they smell or are wet with fuel?

How long ago was the sound system installed?

Do you have an aftermarket alarm?

Are you certain the distributor was lined up to TDC after you changed the internals on the distributor?

I have my suspicions about the problem but I don't want to influence you too much before it's been properly troubleshot. Guessing games are expensive and never much fun. If what I'm thinking is right your plugs would read rich and might actually be soaked, and your bumper would be black near the muffler tip and you would be throwing code 61, 63, and 67 if my memory servers me correctly.

If it's not giving you any of those symptoms then I would go back and check the wiring again on dizzy and check the pickup and coil. If that all checks out okay I would start looking at the wiring job where that sound system was put in and make sure all the connections are good and that there aren't any floating connections or shorts.

If you do have those symptoms (black bumper etc) you've probably fouled your 02 and possibly your catalytic converter as a result of the computer trying to compensate for all the codes it was getting. It would change the air/fuel mix to ultra rich which can kill your catalytic converter and 02 sensors. Your bumper may not be all that black though. It depends on how many miles you've driven the car like that.

 

The problem is the distributor. Where can I find a distributor for a true JDM (not a converted right hand drive) 1996 Integra Type R (B18 Type R Head)

 

Ding! Oh how interesting! Glad you figured it out. You may want to try Ebay?

Just did a quick Ebay search. Check this out..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-9...Q5fAccessories



THIS AUCTION IS FOR USED JDM INTEGRA GSR TYPE R B18C VTEC OBD1 DISTRIBUTOR.

FIT: 96 AND INTEGRA GSR OR TYPE R B16A B18C ENGINE.

Conditon: USED, 25,000-30,000 miles,

THIS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT EVEN IS USED WORKS BETTER THAN A NEW ONE FROM CHINA, OR REBUILDED, I TESTED MANY OF THEM IN CUSTOMER'S CAR, WHEN IDLE RPM WILL JUMP UP AND DOWN, AND HIGH RPM RANGE LOWER.

SHIPPING PRICE IS AS LISTED

ALL SALE ARE FINAL, SOLD AS-IS, NO RETURN OR REFUN