b18b1 clutch won't disengage
I just swapped a '97 Integra LS motor/transmission into my '96 Civic hatchback. It has a b16a flywheel that was resurfaced, and a competition stage 4 six puck clutch with new throwout bearing and pilot bearing. I got the car running yesterday, and we bled the clutch system, but I can't get the clutch to disengage. The master cylinder was working great when I had the old motor, and I put a new slave cylinder on the transmission. Tried adjusting the pedal as far as I could, but it's still not disengaging the clutch.
From what I've read, the only thing I can think of is that the clutch is on backwards. I thought for sure we put it on the correct way, but is there anything else that could be wrong? I'm 100% sure there is no air in the line anymore, as I bled that thing many many times with no air coming out.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
- Steven
From what I've read, the only thing I can think of is that the clutch is on backwards. I thought for sure we put it on the correct way, but is there anything else that could be wrong? I'm 100% sure there is no air in the line anymore, as I bled that thing many many times with no air coming out.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
- Steven
Clutch is on backwards or the system has a leak or air in it.
Have someone toggle the clutch pedal while you watch the slave/fork to see if it has full travel.
Check the MC again. Bleed it again. If that doesn't work, pull the trans off.
Have someone toggle the clutch pedal while you watch the slave/fork to see if it has full travel.
Check the MC again. Bleed it again. If that doesn't work, pull the trans off.
OK we checked the clutch fork and it seems to have full travel. How do you check the MC? Are you referring to just making sure there isn't any air in the lines?
I'll go ahead and try bleeding it again tonight, and if that doesn't work, I'll pull off the trans when I'm not working next. Thanks for the help dude.
I'll go ahead and try bleeding it again tonight, and if that doesn't work, I'll pull off the trans when I'm not working next. Thanks for the help dude.
can anyone confirm if the spring side of the clutch is towards the transmission? I'm pretty sure we put the spring side towards the transmission and the flat side towards the flywheel. However, I don't think we put any grease on the clutch where it makes contact with the input shaft, so I probably need to pull it back out in any case.
Thanks in advance.
- Steven
Thanks in advance.
- Steven
when you took it out (the old one) did you stack it and replace it with the aftermarket one the exact same way.. i belive the spring side with the studs should go against the flywheel and it should have the studs line up with the holes in the flywheel, there is only one way it should/can go on.. correct me if im wrong..
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Well the engine originally had an auto transmission on it, so i don't really have any way to compare. I'll just plan on pulling the transmission off on monday and double check things.
Update: I think I may have found the problem without pulling the transmission off yet. This will require me to pull it off in any case, but someone told me a new cause this weekend that makes sense.
Basically, I had my flywheel resurfaced, and the guy that did it apparently didn't know that you're supposed to grind down on the spot where the pressure plate bolts up so that the step is in spec. So apparently I need to get a new flywheel. I'm gonna try that and see what happens.
Basically, I had my flywheel resurfaced, and the guy that did it apparently didn't know that you're supposed to grind down on the spot where the pressure plate bolts up so that the step is in spec. So apparently I need to get a new flywheel. I'm gonna try that and see what happens.
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