I am writing a shopping list to turbo my car, but i had a quick question. here's a link to 3 connecting rods I was lookin at.
http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-s...nnecting-rods/

Do i REALLY have to pay $700 for crowers?? or would the eagle or scats work?

thx

 

anyone??

 

how much power are you looking to make??

most of the d guys in the FI forum run either FJ's rods or eagles...

the fj ycp's and rods are a nice setup... http://fjdistributors.com/specials.php

 

FJ's packed with vitaras is a reliable 450whp package at least, maybe even more power is possible

 

I run SCAT H-Beam and Vitara's. Scat/Eagle is fine but you will have 7.4-7.6CR. Some people dont like that to have their CR that low. If you do the custom length FJT rods then its around 8.5.
http://fjdistributors.com/product_in...roducts_id=270
http://fjdistributors.com/product_in...roducts_id=269
etc.
I bought my SCAT's on Ebay for $215 shipped.

 

FJ's are around 8.5 with vitara's? I need to read a bit more lol, I thought it dumped CR down to around 8.1-8.3

you can always shave the head slightly or use a thinner headgasket if 7.** is too low. at least shaving the head will help your quench a bit <shrugs>

 

w/e. I run 7.49 in my setup and its perfectly fine. it has great daily driveability with a 8lb Flywheel. And I can climb hills at 2k RPM. Yet its perfect for boost

 

hmm, out of boost, Im sure its much more sluggish then stock. thats a fair performance loss out of boost.

Ive seen people with the money for specific honda pistons (ajka not vitars) and they haev their compression between 8.2 and 8.7 usually. Ive seen as high as 9.0 but that was for a max of 230whp I belive. any more power and its almost mandatory to drop it down a little bit if you dont want to get it perfectly tuned lol

 

its actually not bad. its about the speed of a DX hatch except it can come off quicker. Its also running a DX tranny so go figure. You can run 9.0 and make good power. But its all about how much gas you want to use when your not on boost, and how much gas your going to use when your on boost. meaning that lower CR's can go further on pump gas. At least thats how it was explained to me.

 

hmm, its the otehrway around I think. higher compression makes better use of teh gas, aka, forcing the piston down faster and easier, increasing net torque and hp. there is a compromise of compression versus gas mileage, but I think you would benefit quite a bit by increasing teh compression


how much wheelhp and tq are you getting right now? and what turbo and at what rating(psi) are you tagging that peak power? just wanna know, if its high power and high psi, you should leave the compression alone. but if botha re say, lower then 350whp and 10psi, you could raise it a few tenths for slightly better mpg and NA power when off boost

 

lower static CR makes better Gas mileage. Thats why Honda D series motors have lower compression.
Higher Static Compression just makes you need more gas for boost and is more prone to detonation since there is less area for the compressed air. Its not faster and easier at all, piston compression has nothing to do with piston speed. And it would actually make it harder because remember as it pushes down on 1 then it has to push up on another one with that high compression.

 

I got better gasmileage when I slapped a z6 head on my b7 a few years ago. 9.2 stock, now was just below 10 if i remember correctly.


didnt the d15z1 have like 9.6 compression? quite a bit above the d15b7 which had more power and less fuel efficiency. I believe the civics in 92-95 that were equiped with the z1 were rated at 50-60mpg on the highway

 

thats because the Z1 had VTEC-E and used 3 valves at low RPM (where it stays most of the time due to the super wide gears). And it had Lean Burn Technology and used dished pistons.
That is also because the Z6 head is more efficient and flows better than a B7 head. CR is not the only thing that wastes gas. If you were to floor the Z6/B7 around it would get worse gas mileage than the B7 by itself. But daily driving it would probably get better MPG.

 

wow, I just realized I have NO clue what it takes to turbo a motor. lol. anyone wanna guide me on how to go about doing this? This is what I was told to get--

"vitara pistons, crower h beam piston rods, and arp head studs, then get an eBay turbo kit

the arp head studs $114
Crower H beam rods $250
and replace the rod bearings $37
New head gasket $25
then the turbo kit would cost around $500-600 on ebay
so for like $900 to $1000 you’ll have 250- 280hp

and i can guarantee if you buy a hks blow off valve, $120
skunk2 pro series manifold $240 and a high volume rail $50-120
stage 3 clutch $240

that’s about $1640 you’ll have 300hp"

prices may be off. But I dont know anything about CR or what size pistons I should get, etc.. helP!!

 

who fkn told you that? They are retarded as ****. Crower Rods are the same as SCAT and Eagle rods. You need to get a 2 or 3 bar map sensor. A P28 ECU and get it chipped, depending on ur car if its OBD1 or OBD2 then you need to get a Conversion harness. Your going to need some 390CC or 450CC injectors, a 255LPH Fuel pump and a B&M adjustable FPR with gauge.
You dont need a AEM Fuel Rail or any other High Volume Rail or a Skunk2 Racing Intake Manfiold (although it does make more power).
You also need to get the car tuned with a street tune (at bare minimum) but better to get a Dyno Tune. Also I would replace your timing belt.
Pieces of Turbo Kit Include, Turbo Manifold (Log Style From Ebay), Wastegate, Boost Controller, TurboCharger, Intercooler Piping, Intercooler, BOV, Vacuum Lines, T Connectors, Oil Splitter, Oil Feed Line, Oil Dump Line, Tapped Oil Pan.

I love how he says 300HP without even a turbo size or a boost number. Clearly he knows very little about turbo setups.

 

its an obd2. do i really have to get a whole new ecu and chip!?!?! that sounds expensive!!! and i have an FPR. hm... this is makin me wanna change my mind and go with a b16 swap...

 

A whole new ECU and getting it chipped? You make it sound as if its hard. You can order it online chipped already. Or you can buy the stuff and chip it yourself. Its really very simple. Especially when it compares to building a motor. Its not really Expensive. Its about $150-300 for the ECU, Chip and Conversion harness.
You dont need the stupid SK2 Racing Intake Manifold or the Fuel rail or a $240 stage 3 Clutch. You can find a nice (branded) clutch on ebay Stage 3 for $130ish. It runs fine, my friend ran one in his 300Z Turbo and it had no problems.
Injectors are around $100, the fuel pump you can find for about $60-80 (I'll try to find the one I bought).
You can easily make 300HP out of this setup. I make close to 300HP out of a similar setup and its not at all maxed out. It just depends on the boost you run and how good your tune is.
I just love how your friend spews prices and power numbers off the top of his head and makes guarantees without any part specs, tune or boost amount.

 

ya I get what you're saying. I just dont know which path to go. I found a nice b16a with EVERYTHING included for $2250. I hate it when ppl ask me what I have and I say just an SOHC..... but turboing sounds like so much work, which I'm willing to put in if its worth it...

 

also, I was looking at this vitara piston and FJ R SPEC connecting rod combo and I was curious what this meant.

- Notching of Block required on D15/D16 engines

???

 

http://theoldone.com/articles/d%5Fse...ilding%5Ftips/

block notching

 

ah. thanks. helped alot.