Need Help with gsr swap!!
UPDATE on bottom of page 9/12/09
Ok I got a GSR in my crx and I have the obd0-obd1 converison. the engine harness is also converted i think its a rywire im runing a type r manifold as well so its not dpfi or w.e. it is ppl convert to. um problem is car runs perfect but after a while when driving and when i press on it, as soon as I come to a stop it dies and turns off, like its not breathing idk.. any help would be appreciated.. doesnt throw out too much black some..
Ok I got a GSR in my crx and I have the obd0-obd1 converison. the engine harness is also converted i think its a rywire im runing a type r manifold as well so its not dpfi or w.e. it is ppl convert to. um problem is car runs perfect but after a while when driving and when i press on it, as soon as I come to a stop it dies and turns off, like its not breathing idk.. any help would be appreciated.. doesnt throw out too much black some..
Last edited by streetsold6teeny8; Sep 13, 2009 at 11:20 AM. Reason: title change
ok the car throws out black smoke but very little/mild...
At first when I used the map sensor and tps on the intake manifold the Check Engine light read those codes (Map and TPS) and the car ran like crap. I could barely drive down the block.
Then I used the same tps but for the map I used the crx one that mounts on the firewall. Then there was no engine light everything is running fine.
Now which I didnt mention when I press on it as well the car breaks pass 6k rpm, like a rapid miss fire but if I press slowly it drives much smoother nonetheless it sort of breaks. the plugs are new.
anything else in order for you guys to help me let me know? this is what the car does
At first when I used the map sensor and tps on the intake manifold the Check Engine light read those codes (Map and TPS) and the car ran like crap. I could barely drive down the block.
Then I used the same tps but for the map I used the crx one that mounts on the firewall. Then there was no engine light everything is running fine.
Now which I didnt mention when I press on it as well the car breaks pass 6k rpm, like a rapid miss fire but if I press slowly it drives much smoother nonetheless it sort of breaks. the plugs are new.
anything else in order for you guys to help me let me know? this is what the car does
check spark plugs and wires too. Old plugs can look fine, but still not run right. make sure you have new plugs in there. and check the IAC valve, it might be dirty.
what rpm does the car idle at?
what rpm does the car idle at?
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I bought new spark plugs. wires how do you check that i mean at idle the cars perfect. Its when I'm passed 6k that it breaks.
car idles round 1k but after i accelerate it stops at 1500 but i kick back the pedal (towards me) and it drops but maintains at 1. after i drive though it goes to 1 then bogs and dies...
ECU ..ok i bought an ecu supposedly tuned for a d16z6 w.e. has 2 step at 3500 vtec 4500 and limiter at 8300, and has an o2 delete. I put it on my car and no codes nothing but the damn car doesnt even idle RIGHT!!! Which in fact i wanted to know if I rechip and tune would it work? its a P28
Now the ecu im using is my friends which is a p28 chipped he has a ctr motor. this ecu doesnt have a o2 delete so the check engine light goes on for that. already checked it. so IDK
car idles round 1k but after i accelerate it stops at 1500 but i kick back the pedal (towards me) and it drops but maintains at 1. after i drive though it goes to 1 then bogs and dies...
ECU ..ok i bought an ecu supposedly tuned for a d16z6 w.e. has 2 step at 3500 vtec 4500 and limiter at 8300, and has an o2 delete. I put it on my car and no codes nothing but the damn car doesnt even idle RIGHT!!! Which in fact i wanted to know if I rechip and tune would it work? its a P28
Now the ecu im using is my friends which is a p28 chipped he has a ctr motor. this ecu doesnt have a o2 delete so the check engine light goes on for that. already checked it. so IDK
ECU ..ok i bought an ecu supposedly tuned for a d16z6 w.e. has 2 step at 3500 vtec 4500 and limiter at 8300, and has an o2 delete. I put it on my car and no codes nothing but the damn car doesnt even idle RIGHT!!! Which in fact i wanted to know if I rechip and tune would it work? its a P28
Now the ecu im using is my friends which is a p28 chipped he has a ctr motor. this ecu doesnt have a o2 delete so the check engine light goes on for that. already checked it. so IDK
Now the ecu im using is my friends which is a p28 chipped he has a ctr motor. this ecu doesnt have a o2 delete so the check engine light goes on for that. already checked it. so IDK
bro because I was anxious and im on time here..lol w.e. bad move sort of on my part unless I can rechip and tune.
um IDK if the basemap is for a b18c1 i mean my friend uses it every day with his ctr motor and his runs fine..
um IDK if the basemap is for a b18c1 i mean my friend uses it every day with his ctr motor and his runs fine..
ok update!I got the chance to work on it today. its hard to fix and focus because nursing school has me jacked up on lots of reading and what not.. so help is always appreciated dont know how many times i say it. After today I dont knwo when i will be able to work on it again so advices please give them When i can i will follow up...
So...... I looked up the vacuum diagram and well I thought it might be the problem to why it turns off. so I looked it up.. the way i have it isnt the way i found online but w.e. I didnt find the exact vacuum diagram on a crx with a bseries with a type-r manifold/b16 and throttle body with map on top kind of throttle body. All the diagrams I see are with throttle bodies that dont have map on top of them and manifolds labeled pgm-fi. So i just guessed. well car kept turning off. originally when i did the swap i used 87 octane. car was low on gas when it kept turning off (for those who arnt aware, car originally turned off after driving normal and pressing on it and then coming to a stop is when it would turn off) which idk if it was due to low gas why it turned off... i put 93 and now it doensnt turn off.. i think it does still rapid backfire after 6k rpm. also car does throw out alot of smoke and it i think its white.. high rpms when it rapidly backfires
here are oics of how i ran the lines



now your opinion or fact... all this is using my friends p28 chipped that he uses on his ctr motor obd1 (obviously)
now the ecu that i have that has the chip tuned for a "d16 vtec" according to the seller, should i just buy one of those ebay preprogrammed chips and swap it or what???
So...... I looked up the vacuum diagram and well I thought it might be the problem to why it turns off. so I looked it up.. the way i have it isnt the way i found online but w.e. I didnt find the exact vacuum diagram on a crx with a bseries with a type-r manifold/b16 and throttle body with map on top kind of throttle body. All the diagrams I see are with throttle bodies that dont have map on top of them and manifolds labeled pgm-fi. So i just guessed. well car kept turning off. originally when i did the swap i used 87 octane. car was low on gas when it kept turning off (for those who arnt aware, car originally turned off after driving normal and pressing on it and then coming to a stop is when it would turn off) which idk if it was due to low gas why it turned off... i put 93 and now it doensnt turn off.. i think it does still rapid backfire after 6k rpm. also car does throw out alot of smoke and it i think its white.. high rpms when it rapidly backfires
here are oics of how i ran the lines



now your opinion or fact... all this is using my friends p28 chipped that he uses on his ctr motor obd1 (obviously)
now the ecu that i have that has the chip tuned for a "d16 vtec" according to the seller, should i just buy one of those ebay preprogrammed chips and swap it or what???
Last edited by streetsold6teeny8; Sep 12, 2009 at 03:39 PM.
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