2004 AP2

So would the best bang for the buck be bolt-ons (with mild ems tuning possibly cams), or forced induction?

 

boost is always the best bang for the buck... lol bolt-ons are for the N/A purists IMO.

and don't start me on gears, 4.1 with boost FTW.

 

EMS? F that. Why wouldn't you go with Hondata (besides the cost)?

Forced induction is obviously the best bang for the buck besides nitrous.

What are the goals for the car?

 

Yes I'm a n/a fan, i <3 boost also. Just my b20/vtec civic was n/a. I just loved the way my civic can keep up with boosted cars ^-^.

Well it's my 3rd Honda, and I'm starting college soon and want to get a weekend car (my accord is my daily, stock k24 power lol). I was thinking about the current SI, but I felt to kiddish in it (even though im still 18) so I prompted to an s2k.

I really want to go n/a but still keep up with the boosted, so I figure i would have to rebuild the engine. But rebuilding this engine would probably not NET as much as a K series.
I just see boosting the CR would be a bit of a hassle since it already has a high factory CR (would probably need race gas).

From my knowledge it's either heavy bolt-ons or forced. How responsive is the F22c to bolt ons? Because I know that Ks are really responsive ^-^.

Thanx

 

well i've always loved n/a cars, just for the props. lol

 

lol... you want to stay NA but keep up with the boosted? I hope you're talking about in a road race or twisties. in a straight line NA will get *** raped all day long.. even with good bolt ons and cams and all that junk there are people that consistently make double the peak power...

an AP2 with header, testpipe, and exhaust put out 205-210whp IIRC... there are plenty of people pushing upwards of 450whp on their turbo setups and the supercharger guys are all above 300 IIRC...

 

Learn the car first, then figure out what more do you want out of it. Boost is nice but will be a lot more money then most people think.

 

In a straight line, it's possible. My b20Vtec setup is mildly built i can hang with Neon SRT-4s. I understand that Boosted helps a lot, it's just a fact that you can squeeze a lot of power out of n/a engines amazes me. 300+whp IMO is to much for me to handle (i'm still a kid and have irresponsible tendency
:p). Last I had my hatch on a dyno it pushed out 186whp and 151tq . I'll post dyno sheet when I can, I'm on my new laptop ^-^!!

 

you need to forget every thing you think you know. you would not have to rebuild your engine if done right. I dont think a K series motor would "net" power like a F20/22. You will not need race gas unless you are pushing up to 500 horse. just think the F motor is like the K motor but made to do work...

 

This car doesn't respond to bolton mods the way other cars do. If you want big power boost it, plain and simple. If you do stay na the best bet would be to get all your mods on there first then get something to tune it with afterwards i.e. emu or full stand alone (hondata, aem) But the way i see it, if you have some decent running n/a cars already why not have a boosted one? Especially if its just gonna be a weekend car.

 

well....so you want to keep up with boosted cars besides the S2000? Like...your NA S2000 vs. an EVO or something?

NA S2000 vs. Boosted S2000....it's a no brainer. The boosted car wins.

You have to be able to deduce that the reason your civic won those races is because your civic was a meatbox. It probably weighed 2000lbs. It won races against mildly boosted casr that were much heavier.

The S2000 weighs in at 2800lbs. It's NOT a meatbox. You're not going to be able to do the same thing with 200whp in a S2000 as in a civic.

This should be very obvious.

Anyway, the S2000 probably isn't the right car if you want a street race machine. With a stock S2000, you'll probably keep up with stock EVOs on the highway from a roll. The car is quick from a roll. From a stop, it's not a dog...but not real quick either.

The other thing that should be obvious when comparing a F22 to a K20 is that the K20 responds to mods better because:
1.) It starts out at around 200hp-220hp vs. 240hp. The F20/22 is fairly tapped out from the factory. The K20 has room to grow.
2.) It has VTC. VTC helps a lot.
3.) The K24 bottom is easily bolted onto a K20 head.
4.) FWD cars have less drivetrain losses than RWD cars.
5.) Until now, tuning options for the K20 have been MUCH better.
6.) K20 cars go faster because K20s are usually dropped into 1800-2000lb civics.

I think that with $5-10k worth of bolt ons and tuning, you'd be looking at around 240ish-250ish WHP and like...mid to low 13 second passes. Maybe tapping into the 12s with gears or something.

There was a guy that did 13.3 with just intake/header/tp. A stock car has gone 13.6. But those aren't the USUAL 1/4mile times.

I think you should maybe consider a different car. EVOs are nice. EVO 8/9s are getting to be cheaper. Or maybe a STi if you want quality and quickness.

 

Much appreciated posts from everyone thanx ^-^. I think I'm going to head for couple exterior mods first, and boost possibly in the future. I understand that the s2000s come out factory tuned almost perfectly and that many boltons could disrupt the power band. IMO the s2k will be a car I think I'll grow to love and I'll try keeping it clean and running for many years to come. 2800lbs is pretty heavy for a roadster and I think i'm going to try shaving off as much dead weight as possible.

 

Most of that weight comes from the chassis itself. There's not too many "features" in a S2000. You could remove the A/C....and save like 30lbs. Then you could sweat off another 50lbs sitting in traffic. That's 80LBS!!

Removing the soft top and adding a hard top saves around 20lbs if you go with the OEM hard top. Your wallet will be $3000 lighter at the same time.

I replaced my seats with Recaro pole positions. I did it to hold myself in at the track...but it ended up saving like 35-40 lbs total. Price on the seats is $1800ish with shipping. Plus rails. I didn't pay that much...but that's what the prices are now.

I don't really know what else you'd take out. You could turn the car into a meat box by taking out:
The radio? The sound deadening tar? Carpeting? passenger seat? Spare tire and tools? Plastic panels?

Replace the exhaust with something lighter. Get lighter wheels. Aluminum coilovers. Composite body panels.....but that's all very expensive.

 

i'd like to change my seats to save weight, but the S2K ones are so niiiiice
exhaust is a good way to save weight (might even make a tiny bit of power), spare wheel removal, seat swap and that's about it for the obvious easy stuff..

 

The stock seats are nice. They're comfy yet sporty...BUT...they suck at holding you in.

My thigh would get sore from holding myself against the door with my knee if I went to a track event. I like to go to track events very often, so....it made sense for me to get them. Plus, my GF was complaining that her back would hurt if she went with to track events. So that kinda sealed the deal and I bought them. I got a killer insane deal on them...so that helped.

 

Im an NA purist and have my car pretty hooked up... Still faster than stock, but for the money Ive invested in my NA set up... I couldve gone FI. And an FI S2000 is a different animal. So in conclusion... Bang for buck = boost.