Trouble with Replacing Fuel Filiter.
Okay I'm not completely stupid, But this is my First time replacing my fuel filter For my Civic 1998 cx.
I know its super easy, you just take off the top and bottom banjo bolts, Taking off the top was simple, but when i got to bottom bolt, it was so hard I must of tried cracking the bolt for at least 30 minutes. Is there a reason the bottom One is so hard?? I just can't take it off, Is it not counter clock wise or?
Heres a picture of the bolt I couldn't get out on the fuel filter (its around the red square)

any help feedback or suggestions would be great, thanks for reading
I know its super easy, you just take off the top and bottom banjo bolts, Taking off the top was simple, but when i got to bottom bolt, it was so hard I must of tried cracking the bolt for at least 30 minutes. Is there a reason the bottom One is so hard?? I just can't take it off, Is it not counter clock wise or?
Heres a picture of the bolt I couldn't get out on the fuel filter (its around the red square)

any help feedback or suggestions would be great, thanks for reading
I have had real good luck with Kroil brand penetrating oil, orange can,,,, if you have a tubing line wrench and a good back up on the welded filter nut it helps and remember if you are looking down on the fiter from the top,,,, CCW for the tubing nut is going to appear clock wise,,,,,,
Last edited by RiverRat2; Aug 21, 2009 at 04:33 PM.
wait a sec... I thought the bottom bolt was attached to the hardline and wasn't able to be turned. At least, I think that's what I remembered from cussing mine for an hour trying to get it off.
If you take the top banjo bolt out, you should then be able to spin the *filter* off of the hardline, using the welded nut on the bottom of the filter. Hold the hardline nut stationary and try turning the welded nut on the bottom of the filter. It should spin the filter off.
Maybe I'm way offbase here and someone can correct me, but I think that's the way I remember it. The parts diagram seems to back me up. You don't want to wrench the hell out of the hardline or you'll end up with worse trouble.
If you take the top banjo bolt out, you should then be able to spin the *filter* off of the hardline, using the welded nut on the bottom of the filter. Hold the hardline nut stationary and try turning the welded nut on the bottom of the filter. It should spin the filter off.
Maybe I'm way offbase here and someone can correct me, but I think that's the way I remember it. The parts diagram seems to back me up. You don't want to wrench the hell out of the hardline or you'll end up with worse trouble.
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alright, so i didn't read crossbreeders and all the other response until after my friend and I sort of stripped the second bolt. I used some wd40 a leverage bar and still couldn't take it off... God I hate dirt and grime. But just to make sure, If Im turning the bolt from looking from the top of the filter It is going to be clock-wise right?
My friend suggested what Vindicator9000 said which is take off the mount and turn the filter instead of the bolt. If I stripped the bolt pretty bad would I have to get a whole new fuel line? or can the bolt seperate from the fuel line?
I'm pretty mad that I made a very easy job complicated and stressful..
any help?
My friend suggested what Vindicator9000 said which is take off the mount and turn the filter instead of the bolt. If I stripped the bolt pretty bad would I have to get a whole new fuel line? or can the bolt seperate from the fuel line?
I'm pretty mad that I made a very easy job complicated and stressful..
any help?
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From: Japanese Domestic Mutt, aka JDM, Conn., U.S.A.
The fuel line is flanged aka flared, therefore the "nut" you stripped does not come off.
Last edited by Bad Brian; Aug 21, 2009 at 01:19 AM.
wait a sec... I thought the bottom bolt was attached to the hardline and wasn't able to be turned. At least, I think that's what I remembered from cussing mine for an hour trying to get it off.
If you take the top banjo bolt out, you should then be able to spin the *filter* off of the hardline, using the welded nut on the bottom of the filter. Hold the hardline nut stationary and try turning the welded nut on the bottom of the filter. It should spin the filter off.
Maybe I'm way offbase here and someone can correct me, but I think that's the way I remember it. The parts diagram seems to back me up. You don't want to wrench the hell out of the hardline or you'll end up with worse trouble.
If you take the top banjo bolt out, you should then be able to spin the *filter* off of the hardline, using the welded nut on the bottom of the filter. Hold the hardline nut stationary and try turning the welded nut on the bottom of the filter. It should spin the filter off.
Maybe I'm way offbase here and someone can correct me, but I think that's the way I remember it. The parts diagram seems to back me up. You don't want to wrench the hell out of the hardline or you'll end up with worse trouble.
so i am assuming that you
are correct
the nut on the hardline going into the bottom does turn.
looking from the top of the filter, you want to pull your wrench towards yourself (clockwise)
get a line wrench, to avoid stripping it.
they are always hard the first time, usually because they have been on there so long.
i always bleed after a fuel filter replacement
looking from the top of the filter, you want to pull your wrench towards yourself (clockwise)
get a line wrench, to avoid stripping it.
they are always hard the first time, usually because they have been on there so long.
i always bleed after a fuel filter replacement
Heres my plan, taking from all you guy's advice, buy some PB blaster let it sit, hit it. take the fuel filter off the mount, hold the bolt stationary with a flared wrench and attempt to lossen the bolt from the fuel filter.
You know what I really don't understand How did I semi stripped the bolt using a flared wrench? isn't a flared wrench suppose to prevent that from happening??
You know what I really don't understand How did I semi stripped the bolt using a flared wrench? isn't a flared wrench suppose to prevent that from happening??
Heres my plan, taking from all you guy's advice, buy some PB blaster let it sit, hit it. take the fuel filter off the mount, hold the bolt stationary with a flared wrench and attempt to lossen the bolt from the fuel filter.
You know what I really don't understand How did I semi stripped the bolt using a flared wrench? isn't a flared wrench suppose to prevent that from happening??
You know what I really don't understand How did I semi stripped the bolt using a flared wrench? isn't a flared wrench suppose to prevent that from happening??
It even shows in the pic the the bottom (inlet) fuel line has a 27 lb ft. torque requirement.
If you stripped it you might be able to grind it the flats back into shape, and when reassembling use a flare nut wrench. Otherwise replace the line.
If you stripped it you might be able to grind it the flats back into shape, and when reassembling use a flare nut wrench. Otherwise replace the line.
the nut on the hardline going into the bottom does turn.
looking from the top of the filter, you want to pull your wrench towards yourself (clockwise)
get a line wrench, to avoid stripping it.
they are always hard the first time, usually because they have been on there so long.
i always bleed after a fuel filter replacement
looking from the top of the filter, you want to pull your wrench towards yourself (clockwise)
get a line wrench, to avoid stripping it.
they are always hard the first time, usually because they have been on there so long.
i always bleed after a fuel filter replacement
I have had real good luck with Kroil brand penetrating oil, orange can,,,, if you have a tubing line wrench and a good back up on the welded filter nut it helps and remember if you are looking down on the fiter from the top,,,, CCW for the tubing nut is going to appear clock wise,,,,,, :thud:
Last edited by RiverRat2; Aug 21, 2009 at 04:58 PM.
yeh, get that special brake/fuel line wrench..
an this probably doesn't need to be said but i'll say it anyways - metric and american sizes are similar but not exact. Like your 1/2inch wrench might fit a 12mm bolt, but not exactly. Get the right ones..
an this probably doesn't need to be said but i'll say it anyways - metric and american sizes are similar but not exact. Like your 1/2inch wrench might fit a 12mm bolt, but not exactly. Get the right ones..
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