doning in right this time.

b20
84.5mm stock sleeves.
spark racing pistons and I beam rods.
acl standard duraglide bearings
eagle 85mm HG
arp headstuds

been waiting ages on the block, cost me a bomb as the first place made a real mess of the hone and bore. took it else where. so its cost me double! lol (fail)

ring gaps:

top .015inch
second .017inch
piston to wall dead on 0.20 across the board. (no blow by hopefully this time)

plasti gauge results:

crank caps:

cap1: 0.035mm
cap2: 0.030mm
cap3: 0.025mm
cap4: 0.030mm
cap5: 0.030mm

rod caps:

rod1: 0.030mm
rod2: 0.025mm
rod3: 0.030mm
rod4: 0.030mm

still using the oem b20z caps as the gsr girdle caps were way way out. my machinist enlarged the dowel holes in the caps so the dowels would fit and machined some of number 3 down so it would bolt down. still im going to get the die grinder on the girdle and create a few more mm of clearance! it clears but at 8000rpm and hot i would not like to chanse it!

crank end play is spot on, as is rod play on the crank.

engineer also had to hone the small ends out on the rods for the pin to slide through (they are circlip type) all went together nicely.

engine rotates ok and fairly smoothly. (for a new engine anyway lol!)

just waiting on my head coming back on monday. just a stock b16a, itr intake valves (has them sat here for years) no port work, i just cleaned up the casing lines and knocked the odd high spot from the chamber. got him to re-cut the valve seats to itr spec angles. going to break it in on stock cams. learning to map, got my lm-1, laptop, ostrich and datalogger (using bre with obd0).

should be in the garage for the rest of the week, just need to drop the old b20, take the skunk2 im and spoon tb off the old engine, the itr oil pump off it to (done less than 3000 miles lol!) and my tri-y header and run the oil lines and off i go...i hope!

still not sure what cams to go for though. i was looking around for cams with a bigass mid lobe for a real beefy midrange, maybe pro1 or some buddyclubs, maybe even some todas, not sure. any recommendations? its 11.8.1c/r. dont really want to rev it more than 8 thou though

 

Looking good! Keep us updated!

 

dropped the entire engine out the bottom on subframes. forgot how annoying it is working in an ef engine bay, everything is so dammed tight lol! started at 9am and finished at 5.30. engine sat ready to get pulled apart and see what is salvageable out of it. hopeing the pistons and crank are still good. need to take the ITR oil pump and arp head studs out of her to re-use on the new block after i have measured them all.

just waiting on the head coming back from the engineers tomorrow. smack it all back together and shove it all back in!! then mapping late thrus through to sunday in my own time.

 

looking good

GL with the progress.

 

nice build
good luck

 

new block is on the box and built up.

check the old b20 out:


































in particular the intake manifold runners, covered in oil on most of them, but not in the Pentium, only go's half way up the runners and oil was dripping off the intake valve guides (i run a free air PCV with lots of ports and have NEVER recirculated anything into the intake)

guessing i have mega bad guide wear, or those brand new oem honda seals i put in went to **** (exhaust are fine, i installed them right to, have done stems at least 4 times now on various cars, vales lapped in so they are tight etc)

bores looked ok, pistons heavy with carbon form running so rich, was so thick some of it had little white specs in it (guessing to got so hot it just burnt to a cinder??) piston skits seem to have gotten a little wear to on the YCP's anti friction coating on the skirts

other than some scoring on the walls the rings looked fine, no oil buildup on them and all where they were when i put them in.

anyone ever experienced oil consumption via worn guides with new stem seals??
its either that or someone had poured **** loads of oil in my fuel system!

 

I woulda cleaned the tranny before bolting it to that clean *** block

 

only gonna take 10 mins to clean that

not painting it, leaving it silver

 

whooo its all together at last!!

jsut got to plumb in the breather, battery and intake.
connect the steering rack (worse job than the bitch pin!!!)
fill it of fluids and volia!

spent most of the night soldering in my data logger into my obd0 cn3 port :D jsut tried it on the laptop and we have life! made a rough base map for first start with BRE and enabeled datalogging on the map so i can start logging and running the map trace right off the bat.

so tommorow midday i should have a running improved NON oil burning b20 vtec.

quickie the arp headbolts should be torqued to 65lb/ft with arp moly lube right? (could not remember 100%)

 

If you are using the old oil pan, I would make sure it's been thoroughly cleaned inside before bolting it on, same goes for the head. Any contaminents (metal) left hiding in these areas can destroy your new build.

 

thanks but that engine/head/intake/external oil feed etc etc has seen the parts washer at least twice sinse i got them back

only thing that has not is the exhaust manifold. no point in doing that though lol!

 

IMO you should still do a thorough hand cleaning and visual inspection. When I had my block sleeved it had made three trips through the jet washer. I still found a finger nail sized shaving in the oil galley. Then later found a piece of metal that must have fell in to the pan while working. The pan had been through the parts washer but the piece managed to lodge itself in between the baffles and the pan.

 

all done. running.

straight 30w oil in the pan, rear coolant pipe was pissing water so i had to take all the intake and **** off again to get to it, must have split the rubber O ring when i installed it. right pita as i was almost ready to start it lol!

let it warm up, kept topping up coolant as you do. let the fan come on and left it for another 15 mins. turned it off. let it cool down then took it out for a drive a couple of hours later. did its first 3 miles sub 3000 rpm with on/off the gas (25% throttle) to work the rings against the bores. got a tiny coolant leak coming from the dizzy area and an oil leak coming off one of the cam seals (joy)

ready to pull the cams again anyway as i need to re-torque the head nuts for the arp's etc/
got a box full of oil filters and loads of straight 30w oil for lots of oil changes :D

 

why build a similar block like the old b20?

 

...umm because the last block with 11.8.1 compression was popping 260 psi per cylinder on the gauge and i dont want crazy compression.

got a coolant leak today, forgot to silicone the head to top water hose mounting. all sorted. also i seem to have nipped the oil sump gasket when putting the manifold on somehow! drips oil when running (will drain tomorrow and loosen off the sump bolts and slide her back in)

had a go at mapping tonight. well the idle anyway. this is going to be a steep learning curve lol!

 

nice i like the paint i should have painted mines

 

Nice write up bro.

 

howd u do ur pcv/breather tryna do one on ma b20v

 

added 2 extra breathers in the front of the VC, got one running from the rear block and running all 4 into an alloy drinks bottle and venting free air.

smells a bit but its better than sucking all that crap back into my engine. which runs great!