Hello fellow H-T'ers, I used the search button, with some luck, however results were conflicting.

anyways, i have a 2000 usdm gsr, it consumes oil. I want to compression test it before doing a leakdown test. What compression numbers should one see on a (brand) new motor so that I may compare it to my own compression numbers. I know that consistency is a good thing but I want consistant numbers that is close to (brand) new specs.

I believe i've also read that you can do a compression test wet or dry. And each one would result in different numbers. (I believe wet being higher) Both sets of numbers would be good, but I'm looking for dry.

hope that is clear. Thanks in advance guys!

 

also, if this should be posted in a more appropriate sub-forum, please advise.

Thanks!

 

You can't really compare absolute numbers from a compression test, to my understanding, with any real meaning. Their should be minimal variance between the cylinders. If there isn't, there's an issue.

 

Thank you for responding. I understand what you are saying.

If i remember correctly, my comp test was ~170 falling consistantly to ~162ish. Which in terms of variance, might be okay. (i need to arrange another comp. test, will be soon)

however what i wanted to know is, what if its supposed to be 200 across the board??

you know, so even if the engine is compression is "consistant", I'm losing overall compression somewhere.

I'm considering a block rebuild.... but what i really need is a leakdown tester.....

 

how much oil are you burning?

 

i believe i consumed around a quart in around 2 months..... i don't think thats normal lol

4th cylinder is also fking up the spark plug. (which is also the lowest comp. cylinder)

any info, insight, thoughts and ideas, are all greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

today we installed the full oem valve cover gasket kit, and a skunk2 cam seal (the one by the vtec solenoid, cuz it appeared to be leaking oil from there...) I've also recently (like 2weeks ago) changed the vtec solenoid filter, gasket and oring (all oem).

Another compression test should be forthcoming shortly, and I'm either gonna try borrow a leak down tester from someone/somewhere, or just buy one.

 

a quart every 1200-1500 miles is normal for these. by the time you burn a quart every 500 miles you're getting close to something letting go. many time an exhaust valve burns and you do the rebuild. personally, i'd just pour in oil 'til something goes. then rebuild. why not milk as much time as you can from it? plug wise, just run ngk coppers and change the bad one every so often. cheap plugs and easy to do.

 

interesting, i didn't know that. i was thinking about milkin' it, but i thought that might possibly lead to bigger and badder problems. It's not like im rich either, so money saving options is great. i just have a slight urge to make what I have I awesome again (loan) =(

I also forgot to mention earlier that the motor is "believed" to have around 85k mi. on it. Even if it were true, I believe it's been hard earned miles.

It also has a cold start/running problem. Need to give it alittle gas while starting. cleaned out the iacv once. should i try again?

changed the 4th cyl. plug alittle while after i got the car cause it was bad. (I was told, didn't see what it looked like...) Pulled the 4th cly. plug 2night, and it had a redish, brownish rust looking crust/film on it. what could that be from? (replaced with new)

 

the time from when i first changed the plug till now, was about 4months.

also regarding the cold start/running problem, if you dont give it alittle gas, it'll die, but after its warm its all good....

appreciate the info/ideas!

 

hi im new to the forum looking for my second car. so is a 01 silver gsr worth 7400 lowered wit 105k miles. couldn't post anywhere else. need help asap. sorry to hijack i just need some opinions.

 

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...qs/faqread.asp

is a chart of plugs and what each condition looks like

check your timing. hard cold starts are often ignition related. that means cap, rotor, wires, plugs.

back to checking the timing. get a paperclip and jump the two prong plug you find fishing up under the very corner of the passenger side of the dash. hook up your timing gun to the #1 cylinder and start the car {make sure it's warm when you do this} the check engine light should be on. now go and time the car. you should see three marks and a line on the timing belt cover. just line up the middle dot with the line on the cover. see what happens.

 

thank you very much sir, will try all of this tonight/over the weekend!

 

The distributor was fully advanced. tried to make it back to "nuetral" but engine would wanna die. was able to bring it back alittle, while keeping the idle somewhat steady. but it drove/felt shitty. I then raised the idle a bit, & the follow-up test drive after that was alot better.

also gotta leakdown test!!..... 5-7% across the board!!.....
(gonna arrange another compression test shortly...)

but regarding the timing issues, i was told it's not supposed to be advanced so much in order to run "good" and that the timing belt was either stretched or it jumped a tooth....

changed cap/rotor/plugs and we were able to bring timing alittle more to "nuetral". but needed to raise idle a bit more aswell. it runs okay and at least the timing is a lot more toward the normal side now. Cold start problem still persists.

Also, when we took off the cap/rotor, the gears inside the distributor look like they were slightly rusting, or just begining to rust, is that okay/normal?

gonna order oem wires/timing belt/water pump/tensioner immediately....

 

bump for ideas!