for a while now, my hatch sometimes wouldnt fire. it would turn but not fire. i would try it again 3 mins later and it would fire up and be fine. CEL has been on forever cause of my o2 sensor. but yesterday it did the not fire-ing up thing, and wouldnt start for a while. i changed my fuel filter and it EVENTUALLY started.. got it to work, it sat for hours, and then when i left work it fired uo right away. today it took a while to start again, went a few places, it started, and then when i went to leave while i was driving it would cut out, bog out, whateverer u wanna call it, skip, jitter through any gear.once this started, my CEL came on instantly and is flashing a code i cant yet comprehend yet. i was thinkin the reason why it wasnt fireing is either the fuel pressure regulator, and if it wasnt that it was the fuel pumo. but if it was the fuel pump, they either work or dont work. so maybe its the regulator? if not then idk what it could be. my ECU flashes one or 2 long, i cant tell, and then 9 quick ones. ill look into it more when its day light in regards to the CEL but any imput?

 

im having a very similar problem with my crx cant figure this out

 

more then welcome to tag along

 

try swapping main relays and check to see that your spark plug wires are still good

 

I had the same problem with my GSR swap and it was a wiring issue. Check from the fuel pump to the ECU/relay you might have a bad connection some where.

 

cylinder sensor?

 

Have you been able to check the code yet? Code 19 is an Auto Trany lockup solenoid, obviously for automatic cars only. There is no code 29. If it's code 9, I could see, thats Cylinder Position sensor. That will do pretty much all the things your car is doing. I just got done troubleshooting this issue with my boosted b16.

Double check the code and let us know what the code exactly is.

 

yea im thinkin cylinder sensor .. elaborate on the situation for me if you dont mind.

 

Cylinder Position sensor is located in the distributor, however, the car has to be MPFI for it to have this sensor even, as the DPFI model does not.

In my situation, I was throwing code 9 according to the obd1 ECU I had, converted it to obd0, didn't throw code 9...but I threw code 4 which is crank position sensor, which threw off the other sensors in the distributor. Mine happened to be a wire that had worked itself loose. Pins b10 and b12 on OBD0 ECU are the pins for the Crank Position sensor, c1 and c2 are the wires for the Cylinder Position sensor. You should have ~350 - 550 ohms of resistance when you use a ohm meter to check the resistance of the wires. I will post up the Factory Service Man parts when I can find them.

 

yea a diagram would be grand

 

Here is the FSM on troubleshooting code 4, 8, and 9.

See post below for correct one, uploaded incorrect one.

 

Use this one instead, wrong one my fault.

 

big help. new dizzy it is i guess

 

replaced the ECM in the dizzy from another dizzy, still throwing the code. im so confused on this ****

 

i had the exact same problem, i changed the ignitor and never had anymore trouble

 

the ignitor eh

 

yup thats the little black box in the dizzy with four prongs sticking out of it

 

You need to check the wiring to make sure that there isn't a break in the wire. Check to make sure there is resistance 350 - 550 ohms between c1 and c2 on the wires at the ECU. Also check for Crank Position Sensor, code 4, my car threw code 9 even though the crank position sensor wasn't hooked up, not sure why it threw 9 instead of code 4. If the Crank position sensor is off, it will throw the rest of the sensor off also.

As I said on my car, it threw code 9, replaced the dizzy, ECU, no breaks in the wire, and it happened to be crank position sensor wire that wasn't hooked up (converted the car from DPFI to MPFI) and it threw off all the dizzy sensors for spark.