After selling my motor a year ago...I am now buying it back from the person i sold it to. With the same broken parts in the head. I wanna see what you guys think of what kinda parts i wanna do for my build. I have a 98 prelude Gutted almost all the way to the max with no power steering no ac or ac condenser. I have to replace value guides and values due to a miss shift at 120 bent 5 values and broke all the EXH value guides. So i was wondering If Skunk 2 titanium flat top values and titanium springs and retainers would be good. I would like to go with type s cams but not sure yet i do know i want a better cam then the usdm stock cam. The head is already ported and polished. Im going to be using the stock IM with out the butterfly's and the top half of it cut out. I would also like to do a aftermarket fuel rail with a aftermarket fuel regulator (155 Walbro) fuel pump. The stock IM bored to match a 66 or 68 mm TB. Thats what i would like for the head. Now please keep in mind i would still like it to pass smog. Now for the block i was reading another forum about a H23 crank and rods with type s pistons Has anyone done that and if so how does it work out? I also want to put a 6 puck sprung with a 8lb flywheel. I also do not know in California if i can switch a obd2 car to obd1 and have it still pass smog and if i cant is there a way to tune my obd2 ecu? If i could have some suggestions and thoughts on this build. Please no rue comments or bashing on. I do not want to go turbo i want a streetable car. And those of you signed up on other fourm sites i do know i posted this on other ones

 

The word is "valves", not "values".

 

What are your power goals ??

A lot of your parts are just not needed. For example, the the aftermarket fuel rail is not needed, your factory can flow enough for 500whp. You mentioned that you're not planning to boost, not need for a bigger throttle body on stock IntakeManifold, with NA setup your factory TB + IM is just right. Stick with OEM valves and valve guides (unless you plan to make some serious power). And as far as the block, you can not introduce type-s pistons into your h23 block because those pistons have a floating-pin design. Doable, but would be more work than it's worth IMO. Research type-S pistons for yourself if you're really interested.

 

OK sorry but did you need to waste a post on telling me i miss spelled a word? Well the values oh sorry valves need to be replaced so i might as well upgrade while its all apart. I would like to see about 250 to the wheels. I Read on socal prelude that the type s cam is more aggressive then the stock one and if i dont do that one i want to do a skunk 2 pro series which i do have to upgrade. I Didnt know the fuel rail could push that much what about injectors?

 

This is from a guy on socalprelude.com

"Now if you wanted to get into the bottom end first then I would suggest Type S pistons, you will get a nice compression bump I believe it's to 11:1 also you can look into the H23 95mm crank and H23 rods but that will raise compression as well(still researching this myself).

For a mild build your not going to need forged internals and with the Type S pistons you don't have to sleeve your block, it's OEM quality and you get the performance gain. If you are going to sleeve your past mild build but I suggest Arias pistons + crower\eagle rods."


"Stage 1 is a high lift cam so it does in fact require a valve train upgrade people have run it with the stock valve train I have heard but same with the Type S cams it's a luck of the draw some people are find some people are buying new heads, I say play it safe upgrade the valve train and do it right.

The stage 1 cam will net you a nice increase as well as keep the power band in the stock location so it's a high lift street cam, I heard it works well with nitrous (if your planning to play with giggle gas). This seems to be a good choice for a street car thats going to have fun at the track once/twice a month.

the stage 2 cam will a more top end increase then stage one, requires the pro series valve train to run it and will shift the power band up the site says 700rpm, I can't confirm or deny that I dont have the cams. This seems to be the choice for a track car that sees its fair amount of street time versus a street car thats at the track once a month.

Stage 3 skunks are track cams so I don't suggest them on a street car at all.

I'm gonna look into Crowers tonight but the way I see it now, crower3 are like skunk stage 2 crower2 = skunk stage 1 but if your interested check the specs yourself if you can't wait =P

Type S cams Don't seem to be that worth the money as I previously though and with the problems that "could" occur with the head I suggest just doing it the right way with Skunk2 Pro series 1 or Crowers2-3's"


So that is why i thought even with the type s i figured you would need to upgrade even with the type s