I need some help with my current situation about needing and not needing a camber kit for my car...I currently have a 91 ef2 with Tokico Blue shocks and planning to get Skunk2 lowering springs (519-05-1650) 2.50 drop on front and 2.25 drop on rear sitting on 15" Ls Mesh wheels and 195-50-15 tires...I hear from different people that I don't need a camber kit with this set-up as long as I get a four wheel alignment and adjust the front toe to 0 with the stock UCA's and I called a shop that said with this setup I definitely do need a camber kit...Im pretty much confused with the he said she said info and would just like to get the correct information...Im not planning to dump my car and would just like this set up for daily driving...Any help would be appreciated

 

Anything you read on here is going to add to the "He said She said" argument.

 

You won't need one, it's been stated and backed up by many that all you ahve to do is set toe to 0 or factory specs. Also you're gonna want to change your blues to something else or they'll blow rather quickly on that much of a drop. They're more of an OE replacement shock.

 

Alignment shops want your $$ and will try to sell you their camber kit or have you pay to adjust the one you bring.

 

No you don't need a camber kit. Shop just wants to charge you more money.

Yes your shocks WILL blow probably within a year or less with that kind of drop.

I still do not understand why people think Tokico HP shocks are good to use with any kind of aftermarket lowering spring. They are an OE replacement ONLY.

 

Um...I've had the Tokico Blues and Skunk2 Springs on my DC4 for like 5 years w/ no problems. I even got it off of my buddies EK. I don't drive all crazy racing down the road or anything but it deff is a smooth A$$ ride! I love the drop and the ride but I'm waiting to throw my new suspension on since I want something a little stiffer.

I've been reading up on this "you need/ you don't need a camber kit" issue and I'm reading a lot of "you don't" so I guess I'm going to see how it goes.

 

Well now that the camber kit is out of the question I stumbled onto a problem while changing out my springs...I removed my egay coilovers and put some springs on that are the same height as the coilovers and the passenger rear side looks flush with the tire nice and straight on the ground...On the driverside rear end it's about a 1/2 higher and the tire is at a angle like if my tire is gonna wear out in no time on the inner wall...I still have the stock LCA's and the bushings look fine...Do I have to get a alignment now that I changed out the rear springs and didn't touch the front suspension...I don't have a rear camber kit either if that's what you want to know...!!!

 

lol. brandon made a phunny.

 

did you loosen and tighten all the bolts to the controls arms at ride height? you need to do that, and if you didnt, please search on the process. it might be called zero the bushings.

uneven ride heights are common btw.

get an alignment first to measure the camber. if theres a huge amount of cross camber, then you need to figure out why, like was there an accident, what is bent... whatever.

 

blues are almost a non issue anymore. with the newer, better koni orange for the same price using blues isn't even worth debating.

as far as camber goes. i have no idea where the magical number comes in that will actually require a kit. it's somewhere over -3.0 though since many guys i've spoken with as well as myself are in the mid 2s up front and have no weird wear issues as long as the toe is close to zero.

 

your probably gonna need a camber kit in the rear only. Usually with that kind of drop you could expect to see around -2.5 degrees of camber. I think stock settings are around -.5
degrees. some people just but washers between the body and rear uca to bring up the camber

 

you can actually roll -2.5deg with fairly normal tire wear provided the toe is zero'd, pat's 'you don't need a camber kit' sticky was made to address this.

 

i loosened and tightened them with the tire off and the car jacked up in the air...i changed out my old lowering springs 3 weeks ago to coilovers and didn't have the problem with the driverside rear wheel until i switched out the coilovers to my new sprint springs...the passenger side tire is leveled straight on the ground but the otherside is at inside angle and all four tires are practically brand new (195-50-15)...!!!

it's the same drop on both sides and the springs are not cut...i have never had a camber problem on the rear and when i changed the springs i held up the lca's in the air with a jack and didn't let them hang loosely...i have a 1" finger gap on the passenger side and about a 1/4" gap on the driverside with the wheel tilted slightly inward...im also running a DA rear disk brake conversion...!!!

 

You shouldn't have as much neg. camber in the rear as in the front, at least not on older Hondas. 96-00 Civics have a steeper rear camber curve, but EF Civics should be more similar to 92-95 Civics.

You need to loosen and then tighten the bolts passing through bushings with the suspension loaded. If your car is on jack stands, then you need to raise the suspension up to close to ride-height level and then tighten the bolts. Otherwise if you tighten the bolts with the suspension at full droop, the bushings will end up tearing when the car is on the ground.

 

we'll i tried adjusting it with the tire off and the car on jack stands and it seems like it adjusted a little bit better then what it was...i loosened the bolts a little on the lca and jacked up the entire brake assembly until the spring compressed and then tightened the bolts back...i still have a little gap between my tire and the fender compared to the other side...!!!

 

u dont need ittt...its falseee..! just do ur toe adjustmentt

 

how do i do that...!!!

 

Is the weight of you car 50/50 left/right? Since it isn't, why do you expect the car to sit level?

 

why wouldn't it be...springs ain't cut,struts aint blown,bushings are fine and there aint nothing in my trunk...!!

 

I hope that's a joke. Have you ever looked under the hood?

We drive FWD cars with offset transverse mounted engines. How could the weight distribution possibly be even?

 

i don't think your understanding what im asking about unlike the other people who responded...let me put it like this so that maybe you can understand it better...I changed out my old lowering springs about a month ago with a set of old coilovers i had lying around...I purchased a set of Sprint (uncut) lowering springs and swapped out my old coilovers and now my driverside rear wheel is slanted in (cambered) which was not present before I changed the lowering springs...The passenger side rear wheel is set flush and straight to the pavement and has a 1/4 gap between fender and tire...My driverside rear wheel has a 1" fender to wheel gap with no weight in the trunk...I corrected it slightly by zeroing the bushings as previously told, but it still needs to be adjusted a little more...!!!

 

A sudden change in camber is unusual. Something must have been changed to change the camber.

However, the ride height difference was covered before.
As were camber differences