Hey H-T, I just did the clutch, oil pan, and installed 4-2-1 headers. I put everything back together and now its backfireing and runs real rich!

Here is a vid to help you guys out!! Thx in advance!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPsMk9rnVvI

 

Chech O2 sensor.

 

checked!

 

sounds like early stage of rod knock unless your intake is the one that sounds like that

 

Check your firing order?

 

checked the firing order its good! It wasnt doing this before I changed the clutch! I think it jumped time! It runs really rich and backfires a lot! Could it be the timing? If the timing is off will it run rich!?

 

yes it will. i had a similar problem when i went to smog, have u messed with the dizzy, throttle body, timing belt!, fuel injectors, basically what is everything u took apart or adjusted.

 

I took of the dizzy, but thats it I didnt touch the timing belt, throttle body, or fuel injectors!

does anyone have a link to how to set the timing on the d15b2?

 

nvm i got it! I lined everything up properly, but im still getting that backfire!

 

well the only way to be sure of the back fire is to get a timing gun. there easy to use. u should be about 16-18 degrees with your timing. after you have that down better then the car shouldnt back fire. if so let me know.

 

I'll try the gun then!! I'll let you know asap! Thx a lot really apreciate all the help!

 

Forgot to mention that when I take of the air intake white smoke comes out of it from the backfire!!

 

Hi juandaman,
Any conclusion to your issue. I am having very similar issues with by 1988 crx dx. Been trying to trouble shoot for a couple of weeks now even mechanic was not able to pin point it. I thought the white smoke was do to head gasket leak but I passed leak down and compression test.

 

check the timing...........

 

Sp33 in the EF sedan squad thread told me that if smoke is coming out of the intake it means my pistons are compresing befor my valves close (hence letting the smoke by) he said its probably the timing! Im gona have someone look at the timing for me 2day causse I dont have a timing light!

 

So TOO MUCH TORQUE,

Are you talking about adjusting the timing from the distributor or from the timing belt area? I played around with the distributor did not seem to do much.

Thanks

 

Havent had a chance to bring it to a shop yet so not sure of wat the problem really is, but ill pm you when I find out!

 

im actually pretty much having the same problem cept mine back fires and shoots flames lol and no smoke coming out of my intake. i checked my timing and it is dead on and i changed ecu, injectors, fpr, cap/rotor, wires, plugs, coolant temp sensor, and still runs the same. if it isnt your timing please post here what was the problem

 

Alright so I read the replies and went and borrowed a timing light. I hooked it up and got the flash working then when my engine reached normal temp i noticed the flashes stopped. I thought the timing light was not working so i hooked it up to another car and it started flashing. On my car it does not flash anymore, only a couple of flashes every two mins or so. Does this mean my number one spark plug connection at the distributor is not putting a spark? I hooked it to plug number 3 and I got more flashes then number one. Its strange, because the car engine fires up better then some new cars so I am sure the plugs are getting a spark. Also when the engine was running I pulled out the number one spark plug wire and I saw there was a major difference in engine performance, so there is a spark. Anyone know why the timing light is not reading on my car?

 

I put new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor also. Could it be the coil pack in the dizzy? This sucks

 

I said I would post here when I found out wat the real problem was! Well its 1 of the vavles on cylender 2 is fked up! Now I have to swap heads from the motor I have in my totaled civic!

 

uhh did you end up setting your ignition timing? I just finished my swap and it did this on the first startup, because my ignition timing was off. I fixed that and it runs fine

 

I am still at it. I tried the whole timing thing but it did not seem to make any difference.
But in the process I did screw up the timing and new can not figure out which wires I am suppose to short to do the timing.
Here is what happened.
I got sick of fixing the car and took it on a 30 min trip to my sisters house, I drove at about 70mph it did the whole routine of engine check light/loss of power etc. One thing I noticed was that the temperature needle had not moved off cold even after such a long time driving. Then from my sisters house I took the car about 20 more miles where it warmed up, all of a sudden the burning fuel smell went away and car started running more smoothly. So what I suspect is that the thermastate is stuck open. Couple of days later. I took out half of the coolant because I wanted to change out the termastate, but I accidentally took off the wrong hose and spilled half of the coolant on the street. I reconnected the hose, back to the car, and started up the car. Unlike before where the car use to take a while to warm up, it warmed up a lot faster now while in idle, because there was not enough coolant in the car. Once the car warmed up, the black smoke went away and only gray smoke was coming out (gray smoke I can live with because I know it is caused by oil being burned due to valves seals not properly sealing, it was always there and I controlled it with additives). My assumption is this:

1. I start the car and it runs cold, for over 30mins @70mph, causing ecu to throw out more fuel rather then a 14.7:1 air to fuel particle mixture I get higher fuel causing a rich burn.
2. Once car warms up it stops putting out black smoke, which is caused by running rich due to the ecu throwing out more fuel because it thinks engine is running cold, when it is really at normal temperature. This I think is causing the black smoke and back firing.
3. Issue I believe is a open thermostat which is causing the car to run cooler then it should.

I will try to work on this this week and let you guys know if it works. I just have to play it safe the neighbors are not smiling and waving like they use to, ever since i leaked oil and coolant on the street in the new housing development I live in. So I have to make sure they don't turn me in to the city or county that is why I have been slow at fixing the car.

Thanks for your help.

 

Same engine I've got in my 1991, had your fuel pump & tank checked for crud & rust, I notice in the pic, your top screw o distributor is forward vehicle front with lots of space behind, change it to be more space in front less in back. The pressure you need checking, Try to get a timing light from Harbor Freight Tools online or at the store, not that you have to have it and read the instruction booklet, also comes with a fuel pressure gauge and tachometer. Join Autozone and go to Repair Tips which gives you pictures and drawings plus schematics, enter your vehicle data and be on top of available parts, great sales and Free Shipping. If engine idling to fast turn screw other way & slow it down keep about max 25mph pedal speed without foot pressure.