I just put 76mm vitaras with hastings rings in and I have never built an engine before and I didnt know how tight it should be I have to use quite a bit of strength to get the piston to go up or down..... normal ? or not?

 

Come on man you don't have to start new threads. You should probably go post in the All Motor Forum or the Forced Induction Forum if you don't believe me, not in the CRX one. You should be able to use just your pointer finger or maybe your index and middle finger if you have weak hands to push the piston down. It should not fall down by any means but if you are pushing down with all of your fingers or even both hands then it is WAY too tight.

I just read your build thread and I see you said you had to get "undersized" (even though you meant OVERSIZED) bearings when you got your crank turned down. Do you haven any plasti-gauge for doing bearing clearance for your crank and rods?

 

did you check the ring gap?

 

He didn't.

 

I never said I didnt beleive you , and this thread is about something completely diff than the one you and i were talking in. so I started one , thats what the site it there for. and yes I have plastigauge for my bearings. I just dont get the ring gapping thing. kinda feels like I am being judged when i really just want advice. this is my first build so I am not going to know EVERYTHING.

 

well then you probably shouldn't be assembling an engine without someone there next to you who knows what the hell they're doing. i mean do you actually expect this thing to run? there are steps you have to take while building an engine, and tolerances which have to be checked and met.

you need to check the ring gap. to check it you will need to insert each ring, one at a time, into each cylinder. once you test a set of rings ( top, bottom, and oil control) make sure they stay with that cylinder for when they actually get attached to a piston and are installed. set each ring in place and tap it evenly down with the top of one of the pistons until you get it about parallel with the head/block mating surface. then measure the gap with a feeler gauge. i could get you some specs but i'd need to know what engine you have. also, while you were trying to press one of the pistons down did you have the cylinder walls lubed up well? if not that could also attribute to why it might have been more difficult.

 

you act like I dont know this. I do . I just have never done it before. and why would I be building it if I didnt expect it to run? I understand you probably know how to do this stuff but I havent before so I am learning. people need to realize that before you post think about the OP , think about what you say. why be rude? I mean I appreciate your advice I honestly do , but it would be nice to not feel belittled and insulted as well.....

 

well i might of been a bit of an *** with my reply so i apologize. everyone has to start somewhere i understand that. i just know i wouldn't dive into something i dont understand, especially engine building, if i wasn't absolutely sure i was doing it right. if you need help ask before you get to the stage you're at now, that way you dont find yourself backtracking in the future. i mean its possible there is nothing at all wrong with what you have done so far, but without checking various things its hard to say.

 

soap operas

 

LOLWTFROFLBBQ!!1!11

 

Buy/download/steal/borrow a HELMS manual for whatever engine you're working on. If you can't do that go to the library and use their haynes/chilton or whatever they have there.

This definitely helped me when I did my first engine build because it basically explains everything you need to do in detail. It'll tell you what d16sihatch told you to do but in much more detail (with pictures) and give the proper specs.

 

ha yea i could of given him more detail (i.e. how to hone properly, how to install the rings without breaking them, how to clock the rings, etc) but i felt like it was already turning into a novel lol. to OP: like he said, one of those manuals would definately help you out tremendously.

 

thanks for your help , I know how to clock my rings , I was just deterred(sp?) but the ring gapping I realize now its pretty essential and I know how to do it thanks guys , also on the oil rign it says .015 min , what would be good for boost application?

 

Your oil control ring is for doing what the name states... The specs do not vary for any application because they see little to no compression. Their purpose is to wipe excess oil off of the cylinders so it does not bog down the rings or make an area so slick it causes loss of compression or oils to go into the combustion chamber.

So to answer your question .015" MINIMUM is fine for ALL APPLICATIONS.

 

I guess I shoudl rephrase , what should I go with? lets say its at .010.... would you just go to 15 or filea little more so that your not at the minimum? because if 15 is the minimum doesnt that mean thats a little on the sketchy side?

 

No, most of the time the rings will come greater than .015" so you do not have to even touch them. If they are LESS than .015" then you should gap them to at least .015" and .015" will give you enough for all applications. As I said before they see little expansion so it is not as much of a concern with these rings as it is your Top and Middle rings.

 

sweet thanks man