As you all can see I am new to the forum... I'm getting a nice check in the near future, what would you all recommend for a mint 90k mile 91 integra GS?? My plan is to get a stg 2 or 3 clutch and 8lb flywheel, wideband a/f meter, and full 2.5" exhaust for sure, I have headers and an intake already. Then I'm not sure whether to get an intake manifold and 68mm throttle body then go with some bc stg2 cams and springs soon down the road, or setup a CF progressive nitrous system.. What would it require to be tuned with the first setup, about how much would it cost me? Can I tune on the stock ECU with OBD0??? I know everything mechanical, but am new to EFI, and am lost with all this ignition crap. What kind of power gains would I see? Everyone says on a stock bottom end you are really limited to +50hp over stock... Or would it be more beneficial to me to run nitrous just so when I want to race someone or go fast I have it? With nitrous I know exactly how to tune myself, it's pretty simple.lol What I don't know is how much spray time would a 10lb bottle give you with lets say a 75 shot on one of these cars?
-----So next, what upgrades would I need for either one of my possible routes?? Such as will my stock injectors, and fuel pump work with the IM,TB,Cam? Thank you all so much for helping a new member!!!! KyleB7

 

the stage 2 clutch is a good idea. 8lb flywheel isn't all that great for street use, i would use a 12lb. an intake manifold is a good idea, the skunk2 or even the blox one shows pretty good power gains. tb is a good choice too. you can tune the stock ecu, but you have more tuning options with an obd1 setup. whoever told you that the stock bottom ends are only good for 50 over stock output, was wrong. very wrong. the ls bottom end has bee known to see well over 300 hp already. for nitrous applications, i'd use a walbro 255 fuel pump, and some bigger injectors. maybe 310's from the prelude. as far as tuning, i'd say put back a good 450-500 for a good tune. not sure how much power you plan on pushing with nitrous. for more information, i'd check out the forced induction forum.

 

Wow, thanks for the replies again!lol Where are all the other experts? We have 450R forums where I freakin learned to build one of the fastest SB/SS bikes because ppl talked so much. it seems like car forums aren't the same hahaha. So what is wrong with an 8lb flywheel? I know that on my bike it would cause my compression braking effect to be considerably more noticeable, but are there problems I don't know about? Why is a freaking tune so damn expensive?!?! A dyno tune for a few hours on a bike where the operator actually tears the carb apart won't run over 200! For nitrous I can see the fuel pump, but I won't need injectors with a wet kit being monitored by an af... Do you think the injectors or fuel pump are needed with the all motor stuff I listed? any power gain guesses? Thanks for the help! Kyle

 

http://www.zealautowerks.com/horsepower.html horsepower calculator
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...t=8lb+flywheel flywheel information
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aforced-induction-forum-faq%2A%2A%2A-1024174/ list of dyno tuning shops
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/how-install-wet-nitrous-kit-2261379/ nitrous information.

here's some stuff i got from the forced induction forum. they also have reports on which cams make what power and what not. hope some of this helps.

 

if you want to make the car fast, the faster you get a turbo setup and solid engine computer the happier you will be. nitrous has its place but is harder to tune and also carries variables that forced air does not. the instant pressure rise in the chamber is hard on bearings. the pressure of the bottle varies depending on temp and with it how much goes through the jet which of course affects the AF mixture that you better be trying to dyno tune before you track it. before i forget, repeat after me: never ever run a forced induction car without a wideband o2 in the cockpit.

clutch/flywheel wise. the combo has more to do with how street friendly it is than weight. i'm driving on a 7.5lb fidanza right now. then again it's a stock type r motor and organic stock disc. it's really easy to let out and other than the rpms both climbing and falling faster, it's not much different than stock. if you get a more aggressive disc light flywheels become nightmares since you wind up with an on/off switch for a clutch. another car i use to track was a mid 90s corvette. real easy to build a 350 right? well i eventually overwhelm the stock clutch, upgrade to a copper faced 6 puc and fidanza flywheel. complete on/off switch. you just let it out and hung on. there was no feathering it. it's also completely necessary with dot R tires which you will be running and or slicks if you turbo the car. the only other option is muti plate and those get expensive. twin discs start around one thousand. they really are the best of everything though. easy to drive and handle massive power.