I am currently purchasing NGK BKR7E plugs and Gapping them at 23 thousands

I want to know what other people prefer as my engine runs very warm and the plugs seem to be fouling pretty quickly.

I am running a MSD digital 6 ignition box with a HVC II blaster coil.

this should be running the plugs hot but its burning them out.

Please any recomendation helps

I have also tried the the NGK 4554 NON RESISTOR plugs but it is affecting my S300.

Any suggestions to stop that from affecting the ECU, WRAPS, or something that will help.

 

why dont you just run 2 step colder plugs. 1 step colder than the BKR7E like BKR8E

But i run BKR7E's and im fine but i also dont have msd

 

i have a lot of friend he used a turbo and spark plug use this ngk BKR7E and work perfectly

 

but 2 or 3 degrees less i don't remember

 

there is no such plug as a BKR8e, for your setup the BKR7e is fine.

If you want colder you will have to go to the following plug(s):

NGK R5672A-8 projected tip like the 7e
NGK R5671A-8 non-projected tip

You can replace the 8 above with a 9 or 10 if need be for even a colder plug, you won't need to go any colder than the 10 above. Some of the fastest B-series in the world use the NGK R5671A-10 plug, it also comes pre-gapped at .018.

 

I would love to find a way to use NGK non resistor plugs with my setup, they seem to be a hit or miss with the Hondata S300 or Neptune RTP boards. I know of people who use them with no issues but when i tried the R5671A-8 (4554) in my car it would work fine sometimes and cut out my ecu (turning the car off in the middle of a pull) or cut off the tunerviewer other times. I switched back to the NGK BKR7E resistor plugs and the problem went away.

I'm not familiar enough with the inner workings of the ECU boards to determine what's causing the problem and what steps can be taken to solve it. Any ideas?

 

Only issue I've had with them on the stock ecu's is with the datalogging getting kicked out and that is it, we ran the 10 heat range in our SFWD Civic and NepTune RTP with M&W Pro 10 and didn't have issues with them like you mentioned.

 

I run either Autolite 3922's or NGK Iridium's in the 8 heat range. I forget the number right off, but I think its BKR8EIX or something like that. I have mine gapped around .022" right now, but think that I could possibly run a bigger gap. On the dyno I ran the NGK's and they were gapped at nearly .030", but on the street started to experience some issues that I thought was spark related. I bumped the gap down and have not went any bigger on the gap yet.