I have a built type r bottom end with rods and pistons stock sleeves with a stock head. motor probably has a little bit over a thousand miles on it, it is fully tuned on 12lbs... it recently started smoking really bad and on the number 4 exhaust side there is oil where the manifold connects to the head... i just wonder what it could be.. im hoping its just the head..what do you guys think??

 

Does it smoke at idle, acceleration, and deceleration?

What turbo do you have?

Pull the plugs shine a light and see if there is liquid setting on your pistons....

While you have the plugs out do a compression test/leak down test.

I'll put my money on the turbo

 

Sounds more like you popped a valve stem seal or you are having major blow-by problems. Are you running a catch can by chance?

 

stapped a valve stem? How can you conclude that this early in the diagnostics? Snapping valve stems is the last thing I would look at. Elimenate the easy things first.

Compression test will tell you multiple things, and a snapped valve stem is one of them, along with piston ring wear, bad valve seating, or even a blown head gasket...

 

there is a liquid on top of the piston that smells like fuel and oil.. i have a moroso catch can.. it smokes at idle and a lot during accelration and deaccelaration..

 

How is the drain line from turbo to oil pan? Is there any kinks in it?

 

no kinks at alll drain line is perfect... there is oil all in my downpipe..but there is only oil in my number 4 runner..

 

Kid, I know you are new and all, but come on. I said "popped a valve stem seal" how in the world you came up with snapped a valve stem I have no idea. Also a compression test will tell you none of those things; it will only tell you that you have low compression. Do a leak down test and pinpoint the problem, or at least get much closer to it.

 

i agree with the compression test. start there and move your way down the oiling system til you find the problem.

 

what pistons do you have

i have my money on damaged rings or ringlands

 

sorry man being that we all know valve stem seals dont "pop" I assumed you said valve stem. But actually a compression test tells you ALOT, ask any turnin, engine builder, or hell your average tech. And I may be new here but I'm not new to the game....

What cylinder has liquid on top of it or how many has oil on top of it? I'm going to say at this point B20beast83 might be right, but you still need to do a compression test...

And a leak down test can tell you a lot as well, neversatisfied, but not the average honda guy has the leak down tester in his toolbox but rather can go to his local parts store and and obtain a compression tester pretty cheap...

 

Valve stem seal can "pop" on a Honda... Have you ever seen a Honda one? The valve guide has a ring towards the top, the valve stem seal has an extruding seal in the inside that correlates with the valve guide groove. The seal can "pop up" and oil will be sucked in due to vacuum. I see you have never installed valve stem seals either. Also it is possible for the rubber on the top of the seal to separate from the metal part of the seal. Leak down testers only cost about $30 and up. You can have both a compression tester and leak down tester for under $100. They are the best tools someone can own with having a built motor especially when running any type of forced induction. If you can afford thousands of dollars for a FI setup you should be able to set aside enough for at least these two sets of tools.

Valve stem seals on Honda's can "pop" or deteriorate / shred. Now on let’s say a SBC with umbrella style seals it would be almost impossible for them to "pop" because of how they are held on and basically just rest on there, unlike the Honda that actually is seated with friction of the "o-ring" style on the inside.
Also if a valve snapped he would have a lot more problems than just oil……

 

lmao... ok ok so the spring will just go "pop". He said there is 1000 miles on the motor and I doubt we will see the rubber seal "deteriorate/shread" from the metal. Either way its a bad place to start looking. K.I.S.S. I will refer you to. And I dont know where you bought you leak down tester but Mac is 150-160 Snap-On is around 180. Some ebays can be had for 60. I built mine for 30.00 so I doubt I can by a premade for 30.00...

Anyhow for the guys sake we need to keep on topic. Do a compression test and hell a leak down test to make neversatisfied happy and report back...

Any by the way the first motor I built I used a cappy turbo (due to my lack of knowledge and age) and thought I had cracked a ringland from the EXACT same symptoms you are talking about. I even had oil coming out of my exhaust manifold like you are talking about. Pulled the hot side pipe and poured the oil out of it...

 

Yes, true that. Actually I bought mine off E-bay Brand New for $30 shipped, with a case mind you, while I waited for my Snap-On that I bought off E-bay as well brand new for $115 shipped (Backordered P.O.S. E-bayer). I never said the spring would pop off. Every time I post you keep adding your own words or changing mine. Please read all of the posts thoroughly before you respond.

Also, I doubt the OP could make me happy; I am a grumpy old man... LOL!

 

it might be for turbo seals

 

your turbo seals******

 

try 10w40 and oil restrictor

 

DID COMPRESSION TEST TODAY AND COMPRESSION IS 160 ALL ACROSS..

 

Oil on top of the piston means either some sort of ring issue, or valve seals. If the car sits over night, then you start it up from completely cold and it smokes, but goes away after warm up, it's valve seals. If it smokes constantly it's gonna more than likely be something with the rings. The compression test prolly came out fine, b/c with oil on top of the piston it will raise the # sometimes. You could try a LEAK DOWN TEST, and see if that tells you something, but more than likely prolly won't. I had the same issue and it wound up being a ****ed up piston, bad gap on the oil ring. I would take off the turbo manifold and look inside the port and see if there is oil up on the valve, if so there ya go, it's in the head and a valve seal. At least if you do that you may be able to eliminate the head..... Might as well be prepared for worst case scenario, and assume it's the block.