hi my cuzin was driving his 97 civic lx stock and it shut off while driving.
cranks but does not start.
so i go to check his belts maybe the battery died and the alt belt is rip. cuz he said
his battery light came on when that happen.
i inspected the belts and they were good. but i found the cfk sensor wire out of its
holder on the timing belt cover and the alt belt riped thru the white singal wire for ground.

i go to butt connect it and nothing. still crank no start.
i check all the fuses under dash and hood all good.
check for spark and found no spark.
so i decide to take the distributor out and test it on another
civic and turns out the distributor starts the other car. so distributor is good.
so the next day i decide to replace the cfk sensor maybe it was bad.
i take 2 long hrs to install this bad boy(no shop air) and i go to try and start it
nothing. same symptom. crank no start.

so i decided to check it with a scanner. no DTCs present.
i look up live data. for map, rpm, dtc count. i go to crank it
and i get no rpm. stays at zero. and NO DTCs/CEL light

so i read around the forum and found a bypass for the cfk .
i performed the bypass. and recheck all fuses and nothing
same thing.

so i was wondering if when this singal wire rip with the alt belt
it could of cause the ECM/ECU to short out or ground itself and
fired it.??? any help on how to determine if the ecu is bad or
if the wire harness f'ed up?
plz help 3 longs days at this thing. thanks

 

i got a dmm at home.
if i back probe the pins on the C plug
on the ecu(the blue plug) for the
distributor singals like the crank and cam
sensor. wut readings should i be recieving.?
thanks any help plz reply

 

bump up

 

How many miles on the car? How well maintained? Ever had a timing belt done? is the fuel pump running? when you turn the key to the RUN position you should be able to hear the pump run for a few seconds. Need more info

 

yea hear the prime. also can feel it on the fuel line.
i did the timing belt not even 1k miles ago. and i checked it and its
still aligned. didnt move belt has good tension. no teeth missing.
imma just throw a ecu into has to be that i gotta find one cheap.

 

Pull off the distributor cap and rotor and then turn the key to ON(II). Do you measure battery voltage at the BLK/YEL wire attached to the ICM and coil? What voltage do you measure at the YEL/GRN wire attached to the ICM?

 

found batt voltage and all signals were working all around
.5v. but i notice the notches on the camshaft where the
distributor bolts up/lines up to never moved even after cranking.
pulled the valve cover off. dam camshaft snaped. imma replace it
tomorrow.
from cylinder 1 to 3 the camshaft spun while cranking
last piece at cyl 4 it was stationary.
hella wierd but imma replace it.

 

here check out the problem peeps.

 

Damn, figured out your own problem.
Good luck!