The parts in question are:

• Brian Crower Stage 2 N/A Cams
  Part Number: BC0012
  Application: Acura/Honda B16A/B18C - Stage 2 N/A
  
• Brian Crower B16A/B18C Spring/Steel Retainer Kit
  Part number : BC0010S
  Application: Honda/Acura B18C/B16A/B17A - HIGH MILEAGE STREET
  DUAL SPRING/STEEL ALLOY RETAINER KIT
  Premium wound dual valve spring, features proprietary processing procedures and chamfer. Steel retainers are CNC machined from aerospace grade, steel alloy and feature lightweight design for added rpm.

My question is, are these cams appropriate for my set up?

I plan on leaving the block stock, my goals are for a rock solid reliable daily driven motor with a little extra power that I could beat on for the next 100,000 miles with nothing but scheduled maintenance.

Are there any additional parts I need to achieve extra reliability? Anything that I have bought that I shouldn't have or is out of place? I've done a bit of homework and these seem correct for this application.

I have not ran the car on a real dyno, but I have goals of 185~195 whp after everything is said and done with the tune (yes I understand making goals w/o a baseline hp is not a good idea, but that's how it is at the moment).

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Currently as far as the motor I have:

• Stock B18C1 with about 90~100k on the block, runs very well and is very clean.
• Energy motor mounts

[*]OEM Timing belt <10k, all fluids are within 3k[*]

New parts installed within last 3,000 miles:

• S2 IM w/ stock throttle body
• Apexi WS2 exhaust
• New dizzy
• OBD1 P28 w/ Moates Demon (probably will tune w/ Neptune)

Paid for, but not arrived yet:

• B Series Narrow Race Header (bought from VtecKiDD in sponsor marketplace)
• LC1 wideband + gauge

I will have a 60mm dia. straight pipe from header to WS2 when the header is installed.

 

you didnt over cam it, if thats what youre asking. just bear in mind that youre about to see a higher than stock rev range on a motor thats got 100k on it. if you can afford to pull it, go to OEM OS pistons, new rings and bearings and seals, that would be ideal.

 

Pretty much spot on what I was thinking. At the moment I've decided against the rebuild based on the condition the motor appears and "feels" to be in, but I have thought about it. Perhaps I will build up a short block and swap the bottom end out at a later time. It just is too costly in my opinion replacing parts that still appear to be good. Thanks for your input .