So the deal is I did the DIY fuel kill in my 89 Civic. Now it's been about a year and the car is having problems starting and I'm 100% sure it's the fuel kill. I did the DIY right down to the nose, and hunted for a while to get a 20A switch. Now can anyone tell me what's the problem? I do NOT prime the car up before starting it, is this necessary? Like I just figured that you put the switch on and off, and right when you flick it off it should start no problems.

Please help, trying to figure this one out..

 

Hello Melloman,

I wrote the original how-to, and I'm going on 5 years with the same switch in my 91 crx.

If you are confident the switch is good, I suspect your main relay might be the issue. If its the same one that's been there since 89, then its a common cause... every summer we get threads about them going out.

To test, sit in the car and turn the ignition to position 1 (not started, but on). Listen for the fuel pump to click, whir, then click again...that's the sound of your fuel system pressurizing. If it doesnt click twice, your main relay is out.

Try that first, and let me know.

 

There is 2 definate clicks, it could be the switch itself but I don't know. I checked the wiring and everything is still good.. So the last thing would be tomorrow going to get another 20A+ switch and putting it in and seeing if it helps.

As of the moment I just turn the key to on, let the fuel fill the lines and then start the car. 5 seconds of my life wasted each time =P but worth it.

Any other ideas Fireant??

 

Before you put on the other switch, try to start it with the wires reconnected and taped...but dont drive with it that way.

 

Agreed. Unless your switch has some super-high ohm value and is causing major electrical drag pre-pump, the switch is not going to be the cause of the problem.

I know people that have kill switches in their cars for well over 5 years with zero problems.

 

i had the same problem to test if it was the switch i unplugged it and put the wires back. (wire to wire no switch)she started right up

 

Alright I'll try that when I get home tonight and let you guys know.

 

I'm bumping this because my fuel pump is going out and right before that my switch broke (rocker fell out). I replaced it with what I thought was a 20 amp, but in fact it was a 14 amp
Could that have caused the early death of my pump?
I should add the car always had trouble starting with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator set to 36, I have to let it prime for 4 seconds.
The stock regulator puts out only 32 and causes an o2 cel but starts fine everytime
I'm certain it's the pump because tit puts out 32 okay but struggles with 36. I just want to know if I should check anything else and if my using a 14A switch instead of a 20 killed the pump