HELP NO START
ok my car will not start the s light comes on and blinks. the problem used to happen and it would be hard to start but after a month of sitting it completely quit. it turns over but i get nothing. tried new main relay but didnt work. also the brake light switch is bad would this cause a problem? i hear, replace the tcu but i tried that and it didnt work either. any ideas?????
Go to auto zone remove the ignition coil for tests and the dizzy really the igniter from inside the dizzy. This will test the specs for your spark. If one of is bad there you go. But if it was getting hard to start before and eventually died sounds like the Alternator my friend. The alternator should be charging up the battery when you drive to the point where it should start even if you leave it sitting for a month. Could also be a faulty battery not holding charge. They can also test that so take that too and have it tested to see if its good. I had to replace my battery that tested 12 volts but was still bad. It would get charged but wouldn't hold it very well. Electrical components would flicker cut off that kind of stuff. GL let us know the fix
Things to take to Autozone for test and average price in case you have to buy
Ignition coil-$70
igniter(Could also be the pick-ups in the dizzy that are faulty.)Full Dizzy-$170
Battery-$80
If they all test good
Alternator-$130 You can take it with you initially if you don't mind pulling it off first. And remember to start on the nut under the alt not the adjuster bolt or else it'll strip and you'll have a demon of a nut in a very cramped space. Peace
Things to take to Autozone for test and average price in case you have to buy
Ignition coil-$70
igniter(Could also be the pick-ups in the dizzy that are faulty.)Full Dizzy-$170
Battery-$80
If they all test good
Alternator-$130 You can take it with you initially if you don't mind pulling it off first. And remember to start on the nut under the alt not the adjuster bolt or else it'll strip and you'll have a demon of a nut in a very cramped space. Peace
Last edited by bsivoljr; Jul 4, 2009 at 02:24 PM.
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How do you know if your getting fuel? Did you read my post? Turn the key in the ignition to on and run back to your gas cap and listen for the whizzing sound. If you hear it your pump is operational so you can stop saying its not getting fuel.
If you just want to hear all the trippy **** that could be wrong with it we could go down the line, like ignition mechanism failure, fried ecu, short in spark flow, clogged filter, clogged lines... I don't think you or anyone would want these problems so unless you tested the easier components then I wouldn't think too much about the other stuff. Just test the electrical components you said your not getting spark so find out why and it's impossible to not get spark because of fuel. They are two different systems. Peace
If you just want to hear all the trippy **** that could be wrong with it we could go down the line, like ignition mechanism failure, fried ecu, short in spark flow, clogged filter, clogged lines... I don't think you or anyone would want these problems so unless you tested the easier components then I wouldn't think too much about the other stuff. Just test the electrical components you said your not getting spark so find out why and it's impossible to not get spark because of fuel. They are two different systems. Peace
How do you know if your getting fuel? Did you read my post? Turn the key in the ignition to on and run back to your gas cap and listen for the whizzing sound. If you hear it your pump is operational so you can stop saying its not getting fuel. If you just want to hear all the trippy **** that could be wrong with it we could go down the line, like ignition mechanism failure, fried ecu, short in spark flow, clogged filter, clogged lines... I don't think you or anyone would want these problems so unless you tested the easier components then I wouldn't think too much about the other stuff. Just test the electrical components you said your not getting spark so find out why and it's impossible to not get spark because of fuel. They are two different systems. Peace
Go to auto zone remove the ignition coil for tests and the dizzy really the igniter from inside the dizzy. This will test the specs for your spark. If one of is bad there you go. But if it was getting hard to start before and eventually died sounds like the Alternator my friend. The alternator should be charging up the battery when you drive to the point where it should start even if you leave it sitting for a month. Could also be a faulty battery not holding charge. They can also test that so take that too and have it tested to see if its good. I had to replace my battery that tested 12 volts but was still bad. It would get charged but wouldn't hold it very well. Electrical components would flicker cut off that kind of stuff. GL let us know the fix
Things to take to Autozone for test and average price in case you have to buy
Ignition coil-$70
igniter(Could also be the pick-ups in the dizzy that are faulty.)Full Dizzy-$170
Battery-$80
If they all test good
Alternator-$130 You can take it with you initially if you don't mind pulling it off first. And remember to start on the nut under the alt not the adjuster bolt or else it'll strip and you'll have a demon of a nut in a very cramped space. Peace
Things to take to Autozone for test and average price in case you have to buy
Ignition coil-$70
igniter(Could also be the pick-ups in the dizzy that are faulty.)Full Dizzy-$170
Battery-$80
If they all test good
Alternator-$130 You can take it with you initially if you don't mind pulling it off first. And remember to start on the nut under the alt not the adjuster bolt or else it'll strip and you'll have a demon of a nut in a very cramped space. Peace
i had a problem something like this my car would start but i dies right after and then it wont start back for a while i think its the fuel pump but i dont know
Last edited by booted_wishes09; Jul 5, 2009 at 08:32 PM.
whats the yr make model here? You said your not getting fuel or spark, but then you stated that it runs but then sputters out. I need to know which problem your having??? the gear position sensor may be out. Move the shifter to neutral and see if it cranks over.
I had a problem like this on my 1990 Integra. When you turn the key to the "on" position the "s" light blinks right? With my car when that light blinked it would not start no matter what you did to it. Spraying starter fluid in the air intake would get it to start but it would just die immediately because like you said it is getting no fuel. I got sick of the problem and just sold the car but I thought that it had something to do with the tranny. On my car I figured the "s" light was some kinda sport shift or something. Not sure though. I know this doesn't help but checking the battery, alternator, dizzy and all that is just a waste of time. Figure out how to get the light to stop blinking and it will start. Sometimes mine would stop if I turned the ignition switch off and just waited for a little bit. When the light didn't blink, the car would start. Even the Acura dealership couldn't tell me what the problem was.
You tell me? lol I rather work on a Civic since they're easy as f*ck to work with. Accord's are more of a Amatuer type thing if you know what I mean. Rotors are hard as hell to take out unlike civics and tegs, headlights are a pain in the butt to take out even with corner lights unlike civics and tegs, etc. But instead, the Accord was given to me from my dad for free, so I can't complain.
sorry i think you are thinking about the posters problem i kinnda thread jacked sorry!! my problem is kindda the same but not really sorry
You tell me? lol I rather work on a Civic since they're easy as f*ck to work with. Accord's are more of a Amatuer type thing if you know what I mean. Rotors are hard as hell to take out unlike civics and tegs, headlights are a pain in the butt to take out even with corner lights unlike civics and tegs, etc. But instead, the Accord was given to me from my dad for free, so I can't complain.
i get what he means its almost that there so easy its hard lol there problems are usualy easy fixes but are more thought out if you catch my drift. only accoord i ever owned that was worth my time was my 93 h22a cb7 but shes in honda heaven now but back on topic the car im working with is a 1990 accord 4 dr ex
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