I have recently started thinking about putting a B20 from a CRV in my 98 GSR. I have done a little searching around and just want to confirm some things:
-first: Im 90% sure that the 98 GSR is obdIIa
-second: I just need to be sure that the 96-98 spec usdm crv motor is obdIIa also

if this is right is there anything else I need in order to do this swap?

 

Yea, same OBDII for both motors. But, just out of curiosity, why would you want to put a non-vtec motor in place of your GSR motor? Isnt that going backwards unless you did a B20-V setup?

 

initially i want to just run the stock B20 motor and eventually put the gsr head on it

 

sounds like a unique swap. if i'm not mistaken, the non-vtec b20 has a good amount of torque on it. with the gsr head you should throw some great numbers for it being a frankenstein motor.

 

ttt it is ODB II, just get ls crank and Forged pistons instead of doing a swap. If you have a B vtech there is no reason to go b20 unless you are that worried about rod ratio. higher comp will produce more torque than the b20 if the cc is the same anyway

 

my motor is starting to burn oil and I would rather pay 500 for a more or less fresh engine that wont be too slow rather than pay way more to rebuild the B18C1

 

the b20 block with a vtec head is good and quick but the block is fragile... you might be going thru a lot of those blocks they are pretty weak... but is good setup..quick!

 

You do realize that the B20 also has a larger bore than the rest of the B series motors too right? That is another reason why the B20 has a higher displacement than the other B series motors (other than the longer stroke).

 

check out this site maybe they can help you...im currently running ls/vtec with a gsr head right now. http://www.b20vtec.com/

 

b20 cyclinder walls are very thin. you can sleeve it to be safer.

 

if im just running it as a stock B20 do i really need to sleeve it?

 

Of course not..sleeving starts when power adders come into play or even a serious all motor b20 vtec setup..

 

i believe what they are trying to say that it makes more sense to do a b20/vtec. if you are pulling the old motor then you might as well slap the gsr head on the b20 while the motor is out. your going to enjoy it alot more than just a stock b20.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

 

Are you in Cali? of you are, it's not worth doing.

 

I am in California yes, and I know that the B20 is an illegal motor swap, but Im just looking for a cheap motor to swap in because my GSR motor is burning oil more and more and I figure its cheaper to drop in a B20 rather than pay to rebuild my current motor.

 

the majority of these only need rings and valve seals. if you can follow directions you're looking at $150 plus gaskets to fix your b18

plus, being in cali, you're asking for it doing a b20 swap

 

How difficult is the work to replace the rings and valve seals? I know that piston rings/valve seals are what need to be replaced when its starts to burn oil but I wasnt sure if that is something that I could do.

 

how long does it take to replace all of that? I have so many factors to consider in my decision to do it myself or not...

 

ttt

 

someone who has done it before would be GREAT to have help you. once the motor is out you have the block honed at a machine shop and checked for a true deck. this is maybe $75, honda rings are something like $100-120, a new head gasket is $50 and valve seals are $30 plus $50-70 to install if you don't want to do it. you could buy the tool to do it yourself for about that much and get a new tool for the box as well. if you can follow directions it's not too bad. the hardest part is re-lashing the cams and that even isn't too crazy. you're basically pulling the motor, opening up the bottom end and pulling it all. you want to make sure each bearing goes in EXACTLY as it came out and all torque specs are followed to the T. other than that it's just pulling and installing bolts. you also can do inexpensive performance mods now. buying the yellow ITR intake springs and moving your existing intake springs to the exhaust just helped your VT stability for maybe $50, higher compression pistons are another area but i would not want to go above 11:1 on your stock p72 ecu.

beings you're in cali i highly suggest this route as it maintains your legality