Car wont go into gear
So ive searched and went through a couple threads that had my similar problem and have lead me to believe its my slave cylinder.
now my story
driving to work, everything is fine, pull up to a stop light and when i try to put it in first it wouldn't go in =( turn the car off turn it back on tried to get it in and i played with it and all that jazz but nothing.
Now when i turn the car off it goes into gear effortlessly. i also checked the fluid level and it was a little low so i filled that up, i bled it as well. but no luck =(
has anyone had the same situation as mine? if so what was your fix? any other things to check or look for? i just want to rule everything else out before i have to pull the trany.
Thx
now my story
driving to work, everything is fine, pull up to a stop light and when i try to put it in first it wouldn't go in =( turn the car off turn it back on tried to get it in and i played with it and all that jazz but nothing.
Now when i turn the car off it goes into gear effortlessly. i also checked the fluid level and it was a little low so i filled that up, i bled it as well. but no luck =(
has anyone had the same situation as mine? if so what was your fix? any other things to check or look for? i just want to rule everything else out before i have to pull the trany.
Thx
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If it helps my car did the same thing. I was driving, went to put my car into gear and it just grinded and my pedal sunk to the floor. I thought it was slave cylinder, went and put a new one in, bled it, still didnt work. Grabbed a clutch master cylinder from a buddy and bled it and wah lah, it worked.
I had a very similar problem, and I tried everything these guys above me are talkin about... and it turned out to be that the clutch / bracket was loose and just needed to be tightened. Check your pedal and make sure everything is tight inside and out (engine bay). Hope it helps
ok so i replaced the slave cylinder and when i went to pump the clutch to bled it the clutch stayed on the floor.. so would that be the master cylinder that i should replace?
Sounds like your clutch went bad, have someone press the clutch pedal down while you go look so see if the clutch slave is even working, it should move when you press it down.good luck
When you bleed the clutch, make sure you have a small enough hose over the bleed nipple. This will insure that you minimize air getting back into the slave cylinder. This will also allow you to see if you still have air in the system because you will be able to see small bubbles. Make sure the resevoir tank is full with fluid. Get someone to pump the pedal really fast about 10 times, then make sure you keep the pedal on the ground. Open and close the bleed nipple quickly. Then pull the pedal back up from the ground and repeat the process until you don't see anymore air bubbles coming out. Don't just do it 6 times and then call it done. Keep doing it over and over again. When I bled my clutch I went through almost a whole big bottle of fluid.
If you've done all of this and it still doesn't go into gear, your clutch probably needs to be replaced.
If you've done all of this and it still doesn't go into gear, your clutch probably needs to be replaced.
Yah it was leaking black grease..
now this is the part that was kinda confusing but do i bleed it with the bleeder screw slightly unscrewed or not? (im gonna try what D16sohc said) does the length of the hose matter? and yes the slave cylinder does push on the fork.
now this is the part that was kinda confusing but do i bleed it with the bleeder screw slightly unscrewed or not? (im gonna try what D16sohc said) does the length of the hose matter? and yes the slave cylinder does push on the fork.
You need to leave the bleeder screw closed when you pump the pedal. Otherwise every time you pull the pedal up, it will suck air into the system.
There's another way to do it, if you can't have anyone help you. You need a clear bottle with a good amount of brake fluid in it. You put the other end of the hose (the end not attached to the bleeder screw obviously) into the bottle, with the hose opening below the fluid line. Doing this, you can leave the bleeder screw open and just pump the brake. That way when you pull up on the pedal, it will suck in fluid instead of air, and the air bubbles will still be able to get out of the system. Obviously you'll have to keep an eye on the bottle occasionally, to make sure there is enough fluid in it to heel the end of the hose below the fluid line, and to make sure it doesn't over flow; depending how much you bleed the system and how big the bottle is.
There's another way to do it, if you can't have anyone help you. You need a clear bottle with a good amount of brake fluid in it. You put the other end of the hose (the end not attached to the bleeder screw obviously) into the bottle, with the hose opening below the fluid line. Doing this, you can leave the bleeder screw open and just pump the brake. That way when you pull up on the pedal, it will suck in fluid instead of air, and the air bubbles will still be able to get out of the system. Obviously you'll have to keep an eye on the bottle occasionally, to make sure there is enough fluid in it to heel the end of the hose below the fluid line, and to make sure it doesn't over flow; depending how much you bleed the system and how big the bottle is.
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