i was driving home and the engine cut off like turning the key off. the CEL came on and the code was a P1382 cyp sensor no signal. the motor spins but doesnt start. i checkl for spark and it does have it. i changed the distributor wit a junkyard one and it threw the same code again. i found the troubleshooting flowchart and checked the ohms of the sensor. it show the value for a second then goes back to open. i checked the old distributor and it does same thing. is that normal?? i checked the ohms of the wires all the way to the ecm. it still is within value. does this mean the ecm is bad??

 

Did you try to just replace the sensor??

 

fuel check?

 

sensor is deep in the disturbutor unplugged the ecm for 10 mins and now no code still no start. there is 1/4 of a tank and the fuel pump is running. also spark plugs smell like fuel. if it makes a difference the motor is a f22b2

 

throw carb cleaner in, if no firing is happening, either replace plugs if they are gas fouled. Or clean them up let cylinders dry out without plugs in and try firing up again. letme know what happens.

 

thanx for the replys. i did the carb cleaner and nothing happened. so i was turning the crank and i noticed the distributor wasnt turning. so i pulled the valve cover off and the timing belt is broken. it stopped on #1 cylinder so when i checked for spark the distributor never turned off of #1. i bought the car used and put about 13k miles on it and was planning on checking the belt sometime. when it stopped there was no boom or noise or nething from the motor. hopefully nothing was damaged but im goin to work on it tmw so i will find out. thanx again for the help.

 

Oh damn! Well at least you found out what it was. Makes sense though. The camshaft sensor not responding and what do you know, the belt that moves the cam is broken. Wadda ya know haha. Well good luck and hopefully you did not foul up anything.

 

that explains it, you said the motor turned or i woulda told ya to check the timing belt n valves movin, haha.

 

ok i tore everything down and the timing belt snapped. amazingly the head stopped at tdc so i set the crank and spun the motor by hand to make sure nothing was damaged. i checked the timing marks again and then bolted everything up. i started the car and it wezzed into life. it was misfiring and threw 2 codes. P0303 and P1399. i looked up the codes and #3 cyl is missing and random misfire is the another. also some of the valves are ticked. the car ran great before and had no unusal noises. i tore it down again to check the timing and it is dead on. i checked all the spark plugs and all have fire. are the valves causing the misfires and how would they be out if i only changed the timing belt??? also i just read a write up on how to change a t-belt and i didnt lineup the marks on the front balance shaft. is that a big deal or can i just leave it??

 

You mentioned you changed the distributor. Make sure the distributor is not 180 degree off. You may need to check the timing of the distributor.

 

ok i tore everything down again and set the balancer shafts and put it all back together and it still has a skip but no codes this time. i got a timing light and checked the timing and it is bot 2-3 inch away from the pointer. i loosened the distributor and turned both ways and it didnt move the line. is the timing controlled by the computer?? is there a way to bypass to set timing? i have checked the tdc on the cam and crank 3 times so i know they are right. also something weird i reset the disturbutor in the correct order and it will not run, but i switched the wires to back to the way is was like this.....4...2
1...3 and it runs.

 

You need to short the Server Check Connector when checking the ignition timing. The Service Check COnnector is under the glove box with TWO wires (GRN/BLU and RED). You can simply pull it out and short it with a paper clip. Make sure the engine is already warmed up and the idle speed is right when you checking the ignition timing.

It seems you installed the distributor 180 degree off time.

 

Valves might make it misfire. Pull the valve cover off to check the specs of the valves, happened to a friend's Civic of mine once.

 

that is the only way it will go in. i tried to turn 180 and goes halfway in and stops short.

 

Is the distributor you installed from a f22b1 or f22b2? The wire connections layout on the cap of these two modles is 180 degree different. Check the no.1 cylinder mark on the cap. The no.1 cylinder mark for f22b2 should be on your right if you face the distributor (installed on the car).

 

i tore it again and made sure the timing marks were lined up. they were dead on but i noticed the crank pulley marks was 1/4 inch off of the pointer. WTF!! this is my first honda and i like the gas mileage but its beginning to be my last if this keeps up. i hate a fwd engine/trans layout. everything is in the way. i much rather prefer rwd layout plus its easier for drifting. i appreciate all the help from the forum so far!!

 

i put the original back in and its the same way. i put the wires on the correct firing order (starting in upper left 1...3...4...2 clockwise as facing the distributor. it will not run. but if i put them in order starting upper left as 4...2..1..3 it runs(thats the way they were on the car to begin with.