New fidanza flywheel and pilot bearing question
I'm getting ready to install a new flywheel and clutch kit (if i can take out those damn flywheel nuts that are tightened like hell)
I was kind of lost since this is my first ever clutch job.. I learned some things along the way but i still have a question or two!
In my Fidanza flywheel instructions, they mention to apply some loctite to the OD of the pilot bearing when installing it onto the new flywheel. Well after some looking around (i only opened my boxes today), i found out the pilot bearing is already on the flywheel (well i think it is, i wanted to confirm by taking out the OEM flywheel but it didnt happen yet)
Is this the pilot bearing? (the black part in the middle of the FW)
The part # is R12RS

If it is so, is it normal that it turns into notches? Like i have to use some force to turn it, and the it sort of falls into a slot, then force to turn again (and so on). Here's a little video i made pretty quick to show. Sorry for my crappy spoken english
I've never seen a bearing act like this. But i never either played with a pilot bearing..
Last question, When i opened the flywheel box the FW was sealed but there were some minor scratches on it. You can see them a bit in those pics;


The scratches cannot be felt by passing a finger on them, but i can lightly feel them if i use my nails. I am just wondering if it can cause issues with the clutch friction material? Also, can i wash the friction surface with brake cleaner to make sure it's 100% clean before installing everything? Or do i risk damaging the material?
I was kind of lost since this is my first ever clutch job.. I learned some things along the way but i still have a question or two!
In my Fidanza flywheel instructions, they mention to apply some loctite to the OD of the pilot bearing when installing it onto the new flywheel. Well after some looking around (i only opened my boxes today), i found out the pilot bearing is already on the flywheel (well i think it is, i wanted to confirm by taking out the OEM flywheel but it didnt happen yet)
Is this the pilot bearing? (the black part in the middle of the FW)
The part # is R12RS

If it is so, is it normal that it turns into notches? Like i have to use some force to turn it, and the it sort of falls into a slot, then force to turn again (and so on). Here's a little video i made pretty quick to show. Sorry for my crappy spoken english
I've never seen a bearing act like this. But i never either played with a pilot bearing..
Last question, When i opened the flywheel box the FW was sealed but there were some minor scratches on it. You can see them a bit in those pics;


The scratches cannot be felt by passing a finger on them, but i can lightly feel them if i use my nails. I am just wondering if it can cause issues with the clutch friction material? Also, can i wash the friction surface with brake cleaner to make sure it's 100% clean before installing everything? Or do i risk damaging the material?
when you take the old bolts off its easiest, i've found, to use an impact because you can get straight on the bolts better, since the heads are so shallow
the instructions on mine didn't say to put locktite on the pilot bearing...strange. but that is weird about the pilot bearing. if you put your finger through it and then spin the flywheel, does it spin pretty free?
the scratches look fine, and i brake cleaned the friction surface when i had everything on right before i put the clutch disk on, so its exposed for the least amount of time.
and you said crappy english in the video, and its not terrible, just a thick accent, but your typing is really good. Isn't it sad that someone who's first language obviously isn't english, but composes better posts then many people who's first language is english?
bah
the instructions on mine didn't say to put locktite on the pilot bearing...strange. but that is weird about the pilot bearing. if you put your finger through it and then spin the flywheel, does it spin pretty free?
the scratches look fine, and i brake cleaned the friction surface when i had everything on right before i put the clutch disk on, so its exposed for the least amount of time.
and you said crappy english in the video, and its not terrible, just a thick accent, but your typing is really good. Isn't it sad that someone who's first language obviously isn't english, but composes better posts then many people who's first language is english?
bah
I'll go pickup a 17mm impact socket, i bought a 6-to-19mm (12 side socket) kit but for manual use thinking it would come off easily.. Was i wrong! lol
I just gave it a try holding it on my finger and making it spin, it does spin almost normall but i kept feeling bumps in my finger, a little bit like if the bearing was halfway seized or out of round.. Doesnt feel normal at all
well thanks, my first language is french and i dont speak english often, i just type it. And when i need help i try to make myself clear and easy to read hehe.
Thanks alot for the help!
I just gave it a try holding it on my finger and making it spin, it does spin almost normall but i kept feeling bumps in my finger, a little bit like if the bearing was halfway seized or out of round.. Doesnt feel normal at all

well thanks, my first language is french and i dont speak english often, i just type it. And when i need help i try to make myself clear and easy to read hehe.
Thanks alot for the help!
Well, i bought a new bearing, since i need my car rolling for next monday.. It cost me 20$
The thing i'm wondering now, is do i need the bearing? My OEM flywheel doesnt have any bearing, it's more like a round clip, as you can see in this pic

you can compare it with the first pic in the thread. The inner diameter is the same on both.
I had a hard time removing the flywheel bolts, i couldnt take them out manually because the head of the bolts are so shallow, it was too risky to strip them. 3 came off very easily with my electric impact, 4 were harder, but i managed after some messing around screw/unscrew with the impact. Then was the last son of a b*tch.. It was almost stripped but after everything i tried (heating, heating then cold water, lube, cussing like a sailor, ...) nothing worked. I got fed up and took the dremel. The thing is that once the bolts started to unscrew, they were really easy to remove. I figured that it was the seating on the flywheel that stuck, it was a risky shot but it worked in the end.
As soon as i cut about 3/4 of the head of the bolt, with some chisel banging action, i could unscrew it with my fingers..
Result;


Now i've got another question..
As you can see in the oem flywheel picture that i just posted, the sort of bore that sits on the crankshaft plate (where you bolt down the flywheel) is about 79.80mm. My new flywheel bore is about79.40mm. In the instructions they mention that it has to go on tighter since its aluminium and it expands faster. They suggest to either remove the excess material or heat the flywheel on a heating plate (would a cooking plate do the job??), i dont really feel comfortable grinding down with barely any precision... Would the heating make it expand at least the .4mm that i'm missing?
Also, i bought (in case) a crankshaft oil seal (tranny side) but mine looks pretty good (no sign of any leak at all - what you see that looks oily is the "moovit" that i used to free the bolts

Would you replace it? The engine does have 297 000km.. But i'm scared ill spend a day screwing with it, time's running out fast.. If i do replace it, since i dont have a socket/pipe that big in diameter, can i just gently tap it with a rubber hammer making sure it goes in straight?
Thanks!
The thing i'm wondering now, is do i need the bearing? My OEM flywheel doesnt have any bearing, it's more like a round clip, as you can see in this pic

you can compare it with the first pic in the thread. The inner diameter is the same on both.
I had a hard time removing the flywheel bolts, i couldnt take them out manually because the head of the bolts are so shallow, it was too risky to strip them. 3 came off very easily with my electric impact, 4 were harder, but i managed after some messing around screw/unscrew with the impact. Then was the last son of a b*tch.. It was almost stripped but after everything i tried (heating, heating then cold water, lube, cussing like a sailor, ...) nothing worked. I got fed up and took the dremel. The thing is that once the bolts started to unscrew, they were really easy to remove. I figured that it was the seating on the flywheel that stuck, it was a risky shot but it worked in the end.
As soon as i cut about 3/4 of the head of the bolt, with some chisel banging action, i could unscrew it with my fingers..
Result;


Now i've got another question..
As you can see in the oem flywheel picture that i just posted, the sort of bore that sits on the crankshaft plate (where you bolt down the flywheel) is about 79.80mm. My new flywheel bore is about79.40mm. In the instructions they mention that it has to go on tighter since its aluminium and it expands faster. They suggest to either remove the excess material or heat the flywheel on a heating plate (would a cooking plate do the job??), i dont really feel comfortable grinding down with barely any precision... Would the heating make it expand at least the .4mm that i'm missing?
Also, i bought (in case) a crankshaft oil seal (tranny side) but mine looks pretty good (no sign of any leak at all - what you see that looks oily is the "moovit" that i used to free the bolts

Would you replace it? The engine does have 297 000km.. But i'm scared ill spend a day screwing with it, time's running out fast.. If i do replace it, since i dont have a socket/pipe that big in diameter, can i just gently tap it with a rubber hammer making sure it goes in straight?
Thanks!
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