Paint and Body Auto Body Repair, Painting and Prep

question about flashing and sanding

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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 07:13 PM
  #1  
PolishSasquatch's Avatar
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From: Burlington, On, Canada
Default question about flashing and sanding

Im doing a rustoleum paintjob, spraying on with HVLP gun. So im going to lay my high build primer down, then scuff it up with say 600 grit? Now what is a flash coat and how do I do it (i hear it is necessary). Also, do i wetsand between EVERY coat. and when i sand, do i have to always go 200-400-600, or do i just go 600 grit in betweene very coat? Then, between the basecoats, i jsut sand, get rid of dust, and then lay new coat over correct? Finally, say I want 3-4 coats of clear, I wet sand with at least 1000 grit between each alyer correct? and then again, just wet sand, good wash, new coat?


sorry for the long post. also dont try to tlak me out of rusto paint. i dont have moeny for anything else, and Ive sem amzing results with it
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 07:21 PM
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Default Re: question about flashing and sanding

if i knew anything about rusto paint id help ya, good luck.
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 07:31 PM
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Default Re: question about flashing and sanding

same deal as any other paint really. im jsut confsued ont eh sanding process the most. how do you sand your regular paint?
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 07:47 PM
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Default Re: question about flashing and sanding

im going to argue and say no, its not like spraying real automotive paint. Im sure its got its own set of characteristics. I can advise you on spraying with the correct materials, but ive never sprayed that rusto stuff out of a gun.
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 08:19 PM
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Default Re: question about flashing and sanding

i would think it would be kinda like a normal paint job. but you would have to wetsand it more to get it smooth....but i kno nothing about rusto jobs
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 09:21 PM
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Default Re: question about flashing and sanding

I'm taking it on as my personal duty to try to stop people from doing the 50 dollar rusto paint job. It never comes out as good as a real auto paint job.

Well, that's just my opinion of course.

Look, if you're GOING to shoot out of an HLVP gun, then you're only ONE step away from shooting with real auto paint. You can get a base coat and clear coat kit for NOT that much more then it would be to paint with rustoleum. You'll thank yourself later, and it'll last longer. Try restorationshop.com they have crazy cheap paint which is better then rusto.

If you are completely made up your mind, then whatever, I tried.

Unfortunately I can't help you with the 50 dollar paint job. Cuz I don't know anything about it.
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 03:39 AM
  #7  
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Default Re: question about flashing and sanding

no a basecoat cleacoat is going to cost em more than 50 bucks. I spent 34 dollars on two quoarts of base and rtwo coats of clear(clar sisnt even necessary but im going for a deep shine) and yes, sanding it is just like any otehr paint, and it is self levelling.

ok, ignore the fact im using rusto, and jsut tell me if and how you sand in between every coat of paint, and then when do you spray clear on?(after base flashes, or do you wait till the paint is dry then sand and spray?)

im goign rusto cuase 1)i dont ahve money 2)its hard as diamond ocne dry, and thsi car will see much abuse. and i wont care if my beutiful apintg ets scuffed
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 10:10 AM
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Default Re: question about flashing and sanding

You don't normally sand the basecoat of paint, unless something bad happened, like a bad drip or you have transfer efficiency problems ending up with really bad orange peel. Normally you would just spray the base, then spray the clear, then if you want it to be perfectly flat, sand the clear and buff the clear. The problem with rusto is that it doesn't go on smooth, you (from what I read/gather) always get a pretty bad orange peel. Especially if you roll it on. And you sand between every coat to keep it flat, and minimize peel. I've never heard of anyone use rusto paint, and rusto clear AND shooting it out of an HVLP gun. I can't tell you how much you will thank yourself for using real auto paint instead. It's seriously affordable. If you visit a local body shop supply place, they can get you some cheap *** paint that will be better then rusto.

My advice: Use real auto paint.....BUT, if you choose not too, even though it's not that much more...


do one of two things:

Either just do, coat, sand, coat, sand, coat, sand, buff.

Or do coat, sand, coat, sand, clear, sand buff.

Edit: The sanding should be done when the paint is fully cured.
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 11:09 AM
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Default Re: question about flashing and sanding

i'll agree with eyger...
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 11:58 AM
  #10  
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Default Re: question about flashing and sanding

if you can get me autpo paint for less than 36 bucks then i will gladly take it :D ive never sprayed with rusto, my dad did a real quciky 10 years ago and it looks ok, but he dndt do any prep or nothing, jsut scuff and spray. Rusto is aself levelling when you thin it downt o nearly water consistency. Thats how it goe son glass smooth with a roller, so with hvlp, it should be even smoother. As logn as the rusto is thinned down alot, then it will be smotth
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 02:40 PM
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Default Re: question about flashing and sanding

Look at the link in my sig. If you still want to do it, then have at it.

And after you read the link, I ask you this: What clear are you going to be able to shoot over Rusto?
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