running a B18c1 in an 88 CRX si with a chipped B16 (OBD-0) ECU.
the car was running fine for the last few months with the GSR intake mani (with butterflys), but idle was a little rough due to what I thought was a faulty TPS (that wasn't reading 5 volts at idle)
last night I installed a Skunk manifold and when I started the car up, it wouldn't idle. I had to adjust the screw on the throttle body all the way over in order for it even idle at 250rpm. The check engine light also came on, and the ECU went into limp mode and it was burning crazy amounts of fuel. Clouds and clouds of black smoke out the exhaust....
So what is going on? Why would the install of the intake mani change the running of the engine so much? Is my TPS at fault? Any help would be much appreciated! as I have to get my car going again to get to work.

 

what code is your ecu throwing?

 

haven't had a chance to check yet, I know it would help, just hoping someone might have some ideas...

 

did you hook up all the vacume ines correctly? plug everything back in?

 

I believe all of the vacuum lines are correct, as a leaking vacuum causes a higher idle if I'm not mistaken?
Whereas a broken TPS would cause a lower idle?
In order to get my car home I had to pull the vacuum lines off the mani - so that the engine would idle high enough to actually drive.

 

when my tps was broken i got a higher idle

 

reset your ecu, might help

 

-your broken TPS gave you a higher idle? damn...there goes my theory!
-already reset the ECU - only made it worse, until it went into limp mode again.

 

You should not be idling at 250 rpm


[Modified by bryan305, 3:31 PM 8/20/2002]

 

Why should I not be idling at 250 rpm?
As I said the car was not idling at all so in order for it to even barely stay running I cranked the screw all the way around and this increased the idle enough to keep it going and my tach as well my V-AFC told me what the rpm's were.
So what exactly is your point?

 

think you might have avaccum leak somewhere? If too much air is getting in after the MAP sensor then it won't run right at all...

Also, the IACV might be going haywire....after all, it is the Idle Air Control Valve.

Marcus

 

Im gonna check for vacuum leaks today hopefully, but in order to actually get it to idle I had to pull vacuum hoses off the body of the mani to rasie the idle rpm.
Is there any way to check the condition of the IACV?

 

you really need to check the codes, it takes like 2 seconds to look on the ecu for blinking. the tps should be at .5 volts at idle and 4.5 at full throttle.

 

try this!! start the car up and let it warm up if you can, then unplug the idle air control while its running, see what happens, then set your idle with the set screw set it two hundreds above what you want it idle at. if you want it to idle between 8 and 9 set it around 1000 or just over. then shut car off. replug in you idle air control vlave. now disconnect your negative and positive battery cables from your battery and hold the positive and negative cables together for a minute and 30 seconds. (i recommend a vice grips other wise that minute seems to take forever.) then reconnect your battery and start the car and let sit and idle for 10 to 15 minutes and it will relearn the idle and all the mixtures. shut it off after that and restart adn you should be good to go. that is the only thing that has evfer fixed my idle problems, its a little secret i learned from john at lht performance.

 

or pull the hazzard fuse for 10 sec

 

i know that the procedure mentioned about is the proper procedure for idle adjustments but when i pull the IACV plug the car just dies wont idle....what does that mean?

 

Make sure your intake manifold gasket is not ripped..if it is then it will cause the idle to go bad..did you tighten all the nuts on the manifold? also check your throttle body gasket..if bad it will also cause your idle to be bad