just got done swapping my minime for a fresh d16z6 last night and when i started up the car it idled fine for like 5 seconds then idle jumped up to 2000 rpm and car sputters a bit until i get to 4000 rpm then runs like a watch. only thing i swapped from old motor was my throttle body with old TPS and injectors. just bought a brand new wiring harness new plugs, wires, dizzy and cap. old motor did the same thing until 4 thousand rpm. could the TPS be doing this. its the only thing i could think of. please help guys

 

Is the CEL ON?

Is the mechanical timing dead on?

 

hay iam building a d16z6 non vetech with a turbo what is a good cam to go with at a afourdabel price iam running aout of money and wana spend what i have left smartley and whats a good cam gear to go with it

 

An aftermarket cam and gear would be good, but you can change them later.

That being said, I've seen Zex cams reasonable and look on eBay for a gear. I found one for like $30 shipped.

 

were does the d16z6 come from. what car uses that motor need help. pm if u know thanks.

 

whoa.. easy-does-it with the Treadjacking.

OP: if the old motor did it too, i would focus on the TB and the TPS.

 

so i changed the tps today and still no luck. i dont know what to do the only thing i can think of is that it is the injectors. the tps and the injectors r the only thing that came off old motor and the old motor had the same problem with the lagging really bad under 4 thousand rpm. only other thing i can think of is that the bottom end of the old motor is a d16y7 and i heard that they r 190cc compared to almost all other injector that are 240cc. i really need help guys

 

Have you double checked the mechanical and ignition timing?

 

yea i checked both today crank marks lined up and did the ignition timing with a timing light and got it all where it was supposed to b. this is such a headache. i just want to drive my car i thoght the motor swap would help

 

Any CEL codes?

 

Did you calibrate the TPS when you installed the new one?

Yes the y7 injectors are 190cc. B series and the rest of the D series are 240's. That could be a definite issue.

 

Double check that there's an o-ring under the map sensor if it is one that's mounted on the throttle body.

 

i tried to just eye it. i know thats not what i was supposed to do. isnt it like .4 or .45 at idle and like 4.0 at wot. i just dont know whether the injectors are the ones from the y7 because they looked the same to me. do you know if there is any difference visually. like i said before the old motor i had ran the same exact way with the sputtering before 4 thousand rpm then it just cuts loose and runs like a charm. only things i put on new motor where the injectors and the throttle body with tps

 

It sounds to mee like there's something wrong with the vacuum system. Doulbe check that there's no leaks and everything is routed correctly.

 

one other thing. the car when first started acts like its going to run right then about 2 seconds later, i guess when the ecu catches up, then the idle jumps to 2 grand and stays there.

 

Have you tried a different ecu?

 

You definitely have to calibrate the TPS. ~0.5V closed throttle; ~4.5V WOT

No CEL?

Have you checked whether any sensor connectors are swapped?

 

two of my friends that helped with the swap r honda certified techs, and i thought they knew where the vacuum lines ran, but my friend sean said he wasnt too familiar with the skunk2 intake manifolds so i dont know if we have all the vacuum lines ran properly

 

i think that the only cels i have on are the one for the o2 sensor i dont have connected at the moment. the wiring harness was virgin with no cuts or splices. tried the tps in like 6 different positions and didnt seem to help. do you have to resed ecu everytime u move it. also which wires do you check with a volt meter i know there is three

 

Usually when the idle is that high it's vacuum.

 

Could also be a dirty or stuck open FITV. With the engine hot, put you finger over the FITV port in the throttle body. Does the idle speed drop to normal?

 

ill have to check that first thing in the morning. im still kind of a noob what is the FITV. i do know there are lik two openings in the inside of the TB

 

FITV is under the trottle body.

Could be an IAC too. But check the simple stuff first. lol

 

Guys i really appreciate the info glad to have a website with a lot of good and helpful people.

 

When you checked the ignition timing with a timing gun, did you jump the service connector? Also, you really can't check the ignition timing when the idle speed is at 2K rpm, so fix the idle problem first. The diagram below should help with the FITV.

Finally, clear the ECU and then run the engine. If the CEL remains on, pull the codes from the ECU. If the O2 sensor code repeats, then fix it. Other codes that may appear may also help pinpoint the problem.