I'm probably start parting out my build and I'm already thinking of getting a stock motor. I've read some but would like to know which one of these three would be a little more reliable when bosting or which hone would hold the most bost with stock internals. I've seen prices and seems like the F20b is the right choice also because of the iron sleeves, I'd like to get some comments and suggestions before I decide, thanks.

 

Always been a fan of the H23A......10:1cr IIRC-----2.3+Boost=Yummy!
2.0 FTL IMO.....who cares about IRON when theres a cast piston inside. More people have piston issues than sleeve issues.

 

If you're boosting, ask in the FI forum. They'll give you the best input.

The F20b's iron sleeves do open up piston options, but the Mahle forged pistons have worked very well for people running high-hp stock sleeve H22's.

Here's 25+ page long thread about them:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ighlight=mahle

 

Thanks guys, I'll post my stuff on the FS thread one I start dissasembling.

 

get a jdm h22a. they sell for so cheap nowadays

 

I saw an H23vtec on ebay for $960 plus $300 shipping, that's abou how much I would pay for an H22, but I'm still debating, I already scratched off the F20b!

 

Iron sleeves would be ever so nice put probably not worth .2/.3 liters.

 

^^ any idea how much boost can the F20b handle with stock internals?

 

Probably the same the H22 can. All Honda engines (except S2k and NSX) use cast pistons stock, which are the limiting factor.

 

prob as much as what b series guys run it just depends on how good the tune is

 

H23vte blue to it is, thanks!

 

All about the tune......
I have seen H22s pop at 240whp@7psi and others go for years with 300whp+
If you cheap out on building a motor, you have no excuse to cheap out with management and tuning.

 

And even then there is a risk of it just blowing up....I know a guy who had his engine blow up within a few days - swapped in a JDM engine with the same kit and the same tuner and it lasted for a couple years which included many track days.

 

The wonders of inconsistency with cast metallurgy......
My friends setup was all good with ~250whp@7psi for awhile, he got greedy and popped it at ~300whp@10psi.
I have gone through 150-200lbs of Nitrous with stock guts and just a vafc tune making ~300whp. Perfect 12:1 A/Fs and lack of stock fuel cutoff are my friend, as well as -3 to -4* timing.
damn these cast pistons......

 

Seems like the F20b is not such a bad idea if you change the pistons to forged ones right? I wonder if that would let it get to 300hp. Too bad shops here suck and it's hard to find a good tuner, really hard.

 

If Mahles actually work in FRM what would be the advantage of using an F20B? Only thing I can think of is Mahles lack of customization available......
No replacement for displacement.......