I have a stock 1993 Del Sol S 1.5 L. I've owned it six months and have had no problems untill a week ago. As I was pulling away from a light in rush hour traffic it just died. I had it towed home and starting doing some checks. I found it didn't have any spark. I put a new Ebay $88 distributor in it and still no spark. All fuses test good with ohm meter. After alot of cranking I notice the plugs are dry. No spark , no gas. I jumped the 2 prong grey plug with the green and brown wires behind the right kick panel and the check engine light does not blink a code.Just stays lit solid with key on and grey plug jumped. I removed the Ecu and it has a mild burnt electric smell. I didn't notice that oder in the car untill after it died. Could I have a fried Ecu or maby a wireing problem. I'm out of ideas and hate to just throw parts at it, anybody have an idea what might be wrong ????

 

try a dif ecu.

 

There's the problem. Try putting gas in your tank LOL jk

 

altenator....

 

if you know anyone with the same ecu, try theres and see if it works. then you don't have to buy one and if it doesn't work it rules that out

 

Don't really know any one with the same kinda car. That would make it easy though. I found some used ECU's on ebay for around $100. Thats another week down and still not a sure thing. If I don't get any troubleshooting tips I'll buy a used ECU.

 

just throw any d series obd1 ecu in it to see it starts wont damage anything.

 

when you turn the key to on before cranking do you here the fuel pump prime? i would put a different dizzy in, i have gotten brand new ones that are busted from the start

 

no fuel or spark? sounds like a ecu, it would be too ironic for both fuel and spark variables to go bad at the same time. I would try the ecu first then go from there. When was the last time you had a tune-up done?

 

main relay?

 

Is there power to the dizzy? Does it have fuel pressure at the rail?

 

Yup. I did the voltage checks inside the dizzy. 12 V where it was supposed to be. I found this post during a search with some good trouble shooting tips (https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...light=ecu+test) I just cleaned the grounds at the thermostat housing. That gives similar symptoms also. They seemed OK. I was getting ready to install the ECU and decided to remove both covers. I'm pretty sure the ECU is fried. I could notice a slight burnt electric smell after my Sol broke down. That same smell was comeing from the Ecu. With covers off I can see a black spot on the green circuit board. Some soot stains where the smoke escaped, and the plastic is melted and smoke stained on the cover. I'm going to order a used ECU on ebay. That will take a week and I'll be sure and post after I get the results. Thanks for all the help.

Tim

 

Ok, I wish everything was all better but its not !00%. I purchased a used ECU and the car now starts but with the grey 2 prong plug jumped the timeing will not advance far enough. I can only get about 6 degree advance. My manual says 16. The timeing mark doesn't seem to change with the plug jumped or not. I'm also getting code 8, TDC sensor, any ideas ???

 

Your running a P06 ECU Correct?

 

37820-P06-A01 Thats the exact part number of the ECU I removed and installed that same number.

The distributor I installed is a cheap aftermarket $88 EBAY find. I installed the stock distributor thinking I might have got a bad distributor and the original dist. has no spark. I'm back to the EBAY dist.

 

Its probably the Ignition Coil that went bad in the Original Dizzy. Once you take the cap and rotor button off..pull the black plastic thing off and you will see the coil..it has 2 wires going to it and 2 phillips screws holds it in. But a new coil usually costs I think around 60 bucks at the auto store so if you got a new dizzy for 88bucks not bad.

I'm kinda stumped on your current problem though.

 

Me too, I did swap the coil and modual from the Ebay Dist into the stock dist. and still had no spark. I put the old coil and modual in the EBAY dist. just to check them and they work.

 

Code 8 may indicate a bad wire running between the TDC sensor and the ECU. Also carefully inspect the terminals of each of ECU connector for damage.

 

Thanks Ron, I'll start doing some wireing checks. Do you think a bad TDC sensor wire would not allow me to adjust the timeing to 16 degree ? Or would that be a different problem ??

Also, whats left in the distributor that would cause me not to get spark? I did try a new coil and modual.

 

I think that fixing the TDC sensor code will solve the problem.

 

^^

He knows his stuff....I have picked up alot of info from him(Ron)reading his replies throughout different posts.

 

I have an open between the orn/blue wire and the wht/blue wire on my $88 Egay dist. indicateing a bad TDC sensor in the dist. The old dist. reads 352 ohms. Good TDC sensor.

I need to try to make one good distributor from my 2 bad ones.

The old dist. has no spark. It seems when the ECU fried a few weeks ago something in the distribotor also fried. I eliminated the coil and what I think was the modual ( 1.5x1.5,with 4terminals)

Is that a pick up coil thats left ?

What else in there would give me no spark ???

Thanks for the assist !!!

 

Move the (new?) coil and igniter unit/ICM from the eBAY distribitor to the old distributor. Then install the old distributor to see whether you now have spark.

 

The new coil and icm in the old distributor= no spark.

I even put the old coil and icm in the the new dist., it works.

I must be running out of things that wiil produce no spark in that old distributor.

Whats next ?

 

So, in this configuration, you have spark and code 8, right?

So if you put the old coil and old ICM into the old distributor and install it in the engine, then you still lack spark but no codes are thrown after cranking the engine for 30 seconds or more, right? If so, check for:

1) Battery voltage on the BLK/YEL wire connected to the coil and ICM with the key in ON(II).

2) Continuity between both ends of the WHT/BLU wire and continuity between the ends of the YEL/GRN wire (between distributor connector and ICM).