Hi everyone,

Just as the title. I don't know what's wrong everytime I hit on Vtec my MPH dead. I check and the fuse burn out. I change couple of new fuses but still does the same when I hit on Vtec. The fuse on the MPH were 7.5A which I change to to higher up to 15A but still burn out everytime I hit on Vtec....
Does anyone know or has this problem before? This is my first time therefore I needed everyone help, hopefully someone out there has this problem before.

Thank you ahead for all!!!

 

maybe your wires are pinched somewhere in your harness.. i would check the wiring from your vtec solenoid to the ecu and the wiring from the vss to the ecu then from the vtec solenoid to the vss and if theres continuity to both then theres a problem

 

my friend had this same problem except his whole cluster would die.
he has an ls and when he hits high rpms, cluster goes bye bye

it went away eventually.
but check to make sure your not shorting something out

 

Thanks...
Does anyone have a wire diagram? I mean the ecu diagram so I can check the wire from vss to ecu and the vtec solenoid harness to ecu. Thanks alot

 

Anyone know how can I check the code on the check engine? Since this OBD2A don't blink as mine old OBD0. I read couple of how to check them but when its get to a clip on the two harness where there's a plug laying near the ecu. I"m lost on the the two harness where the clip...what am i suppose to do so I can tell the code on checking engine light.
Thank you

 

all u do is jump the two wires u could put a paper clip in there and your engine light will start blinking heres a thread https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faq-need-ecu-pinouts-then-look-inside-478377/
also use this it should be your bible right now https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faqs-frequently-asked-tech-questions-1998336/

 

thanks...
i'll try that tomorrow after work...

 

put that 7.5 amp fuse back in when you figure the problem out.
Don't be careless (and dumb) by putting in a higher amp fuse.
It is limited to that for a reason.
No offence meant...

 

I"m putting the 7.5amp fuse back. Since its keep on burning out I just try higher fuse to see if it's helped, but none. I know that putting higher fuse can messed more onto wires to the ecu or wires on Vss but just testing out. Anywayz, thanks for the reminder though!

 

I used a paper clip and connect both end to each of the the two wires connector. Turn the key ON, check engine light was ON and nothing blink or goes away, just stay "engine check". I leave its for 10-15 minutes and still not flashing.
I went to O Reaily (can't remember the name) something, an auto part like Autozone and borrow the engine code test. As I plug on the connector or socket below my steering then turn the key ON and push "read" on the tester but nothing coming up just say "unable to check on data".

After using the engine code tester, my battery went out therefore I have to charge its back. While I was driving home with my headlight ON. Suddenly the RPM drop to zero, I turn off the headlight and RPM back up again. 5 minutes later, my car start choking, even I push the gas pedal still doing that. Just when I get into my parking space, the car die. I turn on the headlight still working but won't start. Therefore, I jump and its start again. Just don't know what's going to happen next. I let its running for like 30minutes now, still running....

 

Its cause V Tec is sooo nasty that the speed0 can't keep up with how fast it is picking up so it blows the little 7.5A fuse. that means you gotta upgrade! put a 30A fuse in! and bam it will understand the fast pick up yooo!

JK, sounds like you got electrical issues man! take it to a electrician shop.

 

LOLz.....the more bigger fuse the more going to be damage to my other stuffs. Now even I don't hit vtec still dead. When car was running without moving then its fine but when I start driving just like 2-3 RPM still dead.
I"m sure its electrical problem but I was wonder if anyone have this problem before and see if anyone can give me advice on how to correct them. Yeah at last I'll take to electrician shop to check...

 

did u even check your wiring yet... if your thinking this problem is gonna go away really easy your wrong your best bet is to take it to a shop before u short something else out

 

Anyone has a inside fuel panel picture? Mine was gone when someone tried to stolen my car. I need the inside panel fuse pictures so I can tell which fuse is use for. I found some but I don't know if they are the same as mine or not. Mine model was 96 HB CX.
Thanks

 

I don't want to there for them to mess up since some of the wire harness are reconnect and its different from original. I wasn't the one that did the swap before so all these wires harness are not done by me. Beside taking to the shop its depend on how experienced they are. Some mechanic tried to make things worst so you can keep coming back to them. I known people that have this problems in the past. Just like last time, I take my car to Honda dealer to change oil because its cold in the winter so I let them changed for me. The next day I drive to work and its making noise, barely making home. Last month, I took out the engine and the piston melted on cyclinder 4 and on top of that one of the value melted too and a spring retainer come loose.

Anywayz, I got its fix. I'm just glad that I got its over so no more bother me anymore. Thank you for all the advices that you guys gave me.