My first gsr..block
So i just acuired a bare gsr block n crank this passed weekend... I plan to turbo it. so i took it to the machine shop n they told me they could get me an "engine kit" which includes rings bearing, main bearing, thrustwasher, pistons, gaskets & oil pump for $442 total oem spec.. and $850 total with JE Pistons n Eagle rods...
Block needs a bore which they gave me a price of $125, micro polish the crank for $65 and Balance the engine for $200.. Last but not least assemble the whole block for 350.
What ya think about those prices? Also should i assemble the block myself or would it be smarter to have the machine shop do it?
300+ WHP is the goal...
Should I also go with a b16 head or stick with the gsr head?
Block needs a bore which they gave me a price of $125, micro polish the crank for $65 and Balance the engine for $200.. Last but not least assemble the whole block for 350.
What ya think about those prices? Also should i assemble the block myself or would it be smarter to have the machine shop do it?
300+ WHP is the goal...
Should I also go with a b16 head or stick with the gsr head?
Last edited by Defiant_dc; May 18, 2009 at 07:21 PM.
i dunno about prices i cant remember when i got mine done haha. but if you know what you 're doin then just do it yourself save the money. i just wanted a shop to do mine so i kjnow it was all squared away. and my setup is gsr block and head 9;1 and itr cams thats all except turbo kit of course lol. and i ran a 12.17 on nine pounds gonna get it dyno'd this summer.
do some read ups on the heads to compare imo at least you already got gsr cams if u get the gsr head
do some read ups on the heads to compare imo at least you already got gsr cams if u get the gsr head
if your not 100% confident doing it yourself, just let the machine shop assemble it, 350 isnt really that much in the scheme of things when putting a turbo car together
Yeah i more and more i think about it the machine shop knows best.. Now should i get a block guard or anything else so i can make the bottom end bulletproof? Also for the head gasket; there is so much controversy on which to use. OEM or Cosmetic or other? and reason why its best?
Yeah i more and more i think about it the machine shop knows best.. Now should i get a block guard or anything else so i can make the bottom end bulletproof? Also for the head gasket; there is so much controversy on which to use. OEM or Cosmetic or other? and reason why its best?
block guard = cheap not so good insurance
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So i just acuired a bare gsr block n crank this passed weekend... I plan to turbo it. so i took it to the machine shop n they told me they could get me an "engine kit" which includes rings bearing, main bearing, thrustwasher, pistons, gaskets & oil pump for $442 total oem spec.. and $850 total with JE Pistons n Eagle rods...
Block needs a bore which they gave me a price of $125, micro polish the crank for $65 and Balance the engine for $200.. Last but not least assemble the whole block for 350.
What ya think about those prices? Also should i assemble the block myself or would it be smarter to have the machine shop do it?
300+ WHP is the goal...
Should I also go with a b16 head or stick with the gsr head?
Block needs a bore which they gave me a price of $125, micro polish the crank for $65 and Balance the engine for $200.. Last but not least assemble the whole block for 350.
What ya think about those prices? Also should i assemble the block myself or would it be smarter to have the machine shop do it?
300+ WHP is the goal...
Should I also go with a b16 head or stick with the gsr head?
If so, that is a pretty DAMN good deal. If not, still a good deal.
For the OEM parts..which I'm working on right now...i'm hitting $578.89....thats not including the pistons and rods like yourself...and nor the head studs.
Is that $850 for the OEM rebuild kit, pistons and rods together?
If so, that is a pretty DAMN good deal. If not, still a good deal.
For the OEM parts..which I'm working on right now...i'm hitting $578.89....thats not including the pistons and rods like yourself...and nor the head studs.
If so, that is a pretty DAMN good deal. If not, still a good deal.
For the OEM parts..which I'm working on right now...i'm hitting $578.89....thats not including the pistons and rods like yourself...and nor the head studs.
How much boost can i run on stock gsr motor safely with a 14b turbo? =p
$200 to balance the bottom end is very steep, considering you need practically NOTHING done to it anyways. Even my D16 crank only needed 2 small holes drilled. I'd recommend you balance the clutch's PP first, that tends to be more out of balance. Then the crank, then the flywheel. Their prices for work seems to be a little high, but that's usually based on region.
$850 for bottomend parts is good, but be careful with OEM "spec". I've seen oem spec parts fail spectacularly. Once you use 3rd part rebuild parts, you loose 50% of the benifits of running a Honda - good parts. The true OEM headgasket from Honda is an multilayer stainless (MLS), and blows Cometic out of the water. Cometic is great with a freshly-milled head/block, but more people have Cometic issues on Hondas despite only being on 5% of built motors.
The B16 head has better options for intake manifolds (ITR for cheap), and slightly lower compression. The GSR will make for a better daily driver, since the IAB's help with low-end better than the b16 IM. Honestly I wouldn't base it off the cams, people hype the GSR's like crazy, and its a waste of money IMO vs ITR's - you can get them cheap used, but with less miles on them.
$850 for bottomend parts is good, but be careful with OEM "spec". I've seen oem spec parts fail spectacularly. Once you use 3rd part rebuild parts, you loose 50% of the benifits of running a Honda - good parts. The true OEM headgasket from Honda is an multilayer stainless (MLS), and blows Cometic out of the water. Cometic is great with a freshly-milled head/block, but more people have Cometic issues on Hondas despite only being on 5% of built motors.
The B16 head has better options for intake manifolds (ITR for cheap), and slightly lower compression. The GSR will make for a better daily driver, since the IAB's help with low-end better than the b16 IM. Honestly I wouldn't base it off the cams, people hype the GSR's like crazy, and its a waste of money IMO vs ITR's - you can get them cheap used, but with less miles on them.
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