so my 00 civic si was leaking oil slowly like every 400 miles it would be low a quart and i thought it was the valve stem seals so i decided to rebuild the whole engine ( it had 175000 miles onnit) new bearings rods pistons rings valves springs retainers as well as a new gaskit set for the whole engine... now it smokes even worse i lose a quart after 50 miles and it smokes like a ****... when i pulled the spark plugs the #1 was dripping with oil and its not the valve cover gaskit or the spark plug gaskit ring...its also gettin 180 psi in every cylinder...... help please

 

valve stem seals?

 

Did u hone your cylinders before rebuilding?If u did i hope u check to see if the piston to cylider wall clearance was still in specs.Seems to me your rings are not sealing properly.

 

This guy is right on. Perhaps the rings were improperly installed?

 

i checked the piston wall clearances to the specs they recomended and it was all good but if they were wrong or the rings were installed improperly wouldnt i get a bad compression reading i rechecked them today and its still 180 in all cylinders and its still only the #1 cylinder thats all drippin with oil... do you think that it might be a cracked head... maybe in the intake side and the vacum sucks the oil out???

and yes i changed the valve stem seals because thats the first thing that came to mind

 

Not aways you would get a bad compression reading.The oil in the cylinders can cause the compression to read high . Its what they call a wet compression test. But, if its not from the rings then headgasket maybe? I would think you have a warped head but, even if it was cracked wouldnt the machine shop seen it?

 

How many miles have you put on the new build? It does take some time for the piston rings to seat correctly. A friends lsvtec burnt oil for the first couple tanks of fuel but eventually went away.

 

Does it smoke badly at idle,or just really bad under load/acceleration?

Anyways it doesn't sound good at all. Unfortunately with an engine build there are so many things that could have been overlooked. The easiest thing to do would be to pull the head off and redo the valvestem seals but also possibly replace the exhaust valves guides as they can be a problem area for higher mileage B series engines.

If redoing the head doesn't fix it then it's the bottom end.

Have you thought of just buying another engine altogether?

Also a few quick questions:

Did the block get bored/honed?

Regular, or oversized pistons?

Forged or cast pistons

Did you make sure to properly gap and set the rings according to the HELM/Honda manual, as in are you sure you didn't line any of the ring gaps together, allowing oil to shoot right through?

 

^ Sounds correct.

 

god this is just horrible...

do what b18c5eg said. notice if its worse under load or decel.

could be improperly gapped/clocked rings, seals in the head..... anything.

 

ya it seems like it smokes really bad at low rpms then at higher rpms it doesnt like after 4000 and it only does that when its warm... when its cold it doesnt smoke really at all... i took it to the machine shop and they looked at it all but the exhaust ports were covered with caked on burnt oil i wire brushed them out but i didnt really see that much

 

i did replace the head gaskit and the valve stem seals again after 150 miles on the fresh engine i considered that the head was warped but didnt further investigate it... i was thinking about getting a new head but i dont want to if thats not the issue

 

the block did get honed but not bored out so the standard size pistons are in there they are forged as well as the rods

 

im lost man should i just scrap the old engine and buy a new one... what do you guys do with your old engines and or engine parts plus i got the new stuff in the old engine and i dont really wanna scrap it

 

-skirt to bore clearance too loose
-ring end gap too lose
-rings in upside down
-bore not true
-too much oil in pan (windage)

or you hooked your PCV hose to your dipstick tube.. lol =]

 

If you're lost, you probably shoulda spent the money and have someone that is knowledgeable build it..

 

how did you break the rings in? what process did you go through?

 

i just ran the engine at an idle for a hour and monitored the vitals then i began to drive it to work which is only a 15 min drive and i never brang it above 4000 for the first 350 miles then it started smoking it only smokes at low rpm when i give it gas if im just in 2 or 3rd gear it smokes a little just cruising at 2500 to 3000 but then if i give it gas it billows till 4000 then it wont smoke till im at a constant low rpm for a while

 

does neone know a good motor build thread????

 

I would pull the head and take it back to the machine shop and have them check it out.

 

in the all motor section. they can probably help you more over their

 

someone please help i got a 91 integra my old motor that i had in it would smoke alot but a random times and whatever rpms it would smoke bad then it will stop i ended up shooting a value through a piston so i did a complete swap. i got a bare ls block from a friend and took it to a machine shop and had them bore out the block to 40 and i put b16 pistons in all at 40 and brand new rings i got racing rod bearings and ls rods. then i baught a b16 head with brand new crower springs and retainers i had the machine shop check it for compression they said everything was good. the only thing that i left in from my old engine is the fuel pump the fuel injectors the fuel rail everthing else with the motor is completly differernt oh but except for the oil pump its the same b16 that i had on my old motor. so this motor smokes alot to at random times its doing the same as the old motor but this one smokes even worse what could it be? please help me out. oh and when it smokes it smokes ALOT i hotbox my neighborhood when i drive through it