Okay, Ive finally rounded up all my non-ABS (Integra RS) parts. As I had previously read from a statement from Mike K, I had acquired RS: hard lines, prop valve, brake booster and master cylinder (15/16).

Here is what I need help on:

1) I do not know which brake line goes where. I dont want to tear apart my car and be puzzled for hours maybe days. Kind of like I want to put the puzzle together before I put it in the box.

2) Where do I mount the RS proportion valve?

Here are some pictures that can maybe help you and I out on this venture.

PS: I finally got my SAMCO hoses in. $115 shipped from Brits (707) 935-3637

 

I will try to help you as best I can i did this on my EX civic and it should be just about the same, I did this without the motor in the car so I imagine you will have a tuffer time then I did. The proportioning valve replaces the inline valve that you see. The overall longest line that you have will be your passenger side line. you will have two lines that are bent very similar they are ofcourse the two lines that run from the booster to the proportioning valve. the two rear lines just screw right in with no midification. th last line then goes to your driverside. all the lines are held together and then to the car by plastic brackets which break quite easily so be careful. this will take some time. If you need to know anything else just ask.

 

damn, looks like a lot of work

 

It is alot of work, I think Ill have to remoev alot of things to access that area.

 

thats an understatement.

 

migs is da man

 

So you got my IM with the correct number

 

Thank You for posting this... I'm doing the switch in the near future.

 

I did, thanks!

 

Why what?

 

why get rid of ABS? the car goes from 60-0 in 113 ft. can you pump your foot faster than the abs unit to keep your brakes from locking up? and if you say to save weight i will puke.

 

Reasons why Im doing this:

1) My original ABS modulator has failed. I got ABS lights 24-7 even at Buttonwillow. It never helped me to begin with. The 94-95 ABS modulators are butt UGLY.

2) Go ahead and puke.

If you ever get to a point in your hobby to where reducing weight is important to you, you will then probably understand why I am doing this. I am choosing to keep my stock internals and lightening the chassis as much as possible, with some comfort i.e. AC

My GSR weighs 2450 (Ill probably say it was off by a hundred or so pounds) So lets assume its 2550 to be precise. Since then, Ive removed PS, gotten a carbon fiber hood, remove airbags, removing back seats soon, removed winshield wiper reservoir, rear windshield wiper, soon to be ABS, and a carbon fiber seat that weighs 5.9lbs. Yes, I did say 5.9lbs . I can probably guestimate thats saving almost 100lbs. All this "theory" is assuming that the scale was off by 100lbs.



PS, I can assure you that I can stop faster than MOST ITR's here on this board. Read this thread. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=239844

 

don't forget that you want to do this also

 

Tires play a major role in stopping. Don't underestimate that...

 

Every little bit helps, doesnt it?

 

ttt

 

Yes, thats why we were able to run 12.7's 12.8's with a STOCK gsr motor in an EG hatch.

 

I hate to burst your bubble, but Mike K never did this mod. his 'Type R' is *gasp* FAKE.

It's a 94 RS, I'm sorry to say. Not that that makes it any less nice of a car, but he never converted from ABS to non-ABS.

Keep your 1" MC, you don't need the 15/16" unit. As far as the lines, go to the junkyard and pull all the foreword lines off of any 92-95 Civic. The rear lines you'll need to source of a 94-95 Integ RS. That's it all the mount points are there.

It's a really straightforeword project really . . .


Jeff

 

Maybe this picture is going to help. Mike K left 4 part numbers for the hard lines. I bought them new from Acura/Honda. Damn, I hope he is right because this is going to become more expensive than I had expected.

The GSR and RS master cylinder have ports on DIFFERENT sides. How can I use my GSR MC?




[Modified by Migs, 9:23 AM 8/19/2002]

 

 

if the rear caliper lines match, then you don't have to change those. heck it'll probably bo 10x easier to just re bend them to work. (I know I've had to change them out.)

As far as the MC lines, just re bend them They are quite plyable actually.

The Master cyl. is not ABS/non-ABS specific, functionally speaking. I know I run a Type R MC in my (non-ABS) EG and I sell them all the time. You have a 98 gsr, right? if so you already have the 'type R' MC on the car.

Just remove the entire ABS system. The lines in the engine bay that go to the modulator and the modulator istelf. Then bolt the prop valve to the fire wall and install the non-ABS lines. Basically the non ABS system is from MC to prop to wheel wells, it's really that simple.

You probaby got the lines that run fromt he MC to the prop valve (two of them) and the two that go out the the front two whells. It sounds like the rears are reuseable.

Just be sure you connect them to the prop valve properly. Honda cross flows the brake fluid for fault tolerance. That's why the bleeding sequence is different on older non-abs cars and newer abs cars . . .

HTH
Jeff