hey guys, hopefully i can get some help on the matter. yesterday i was cruising to a meet in upstate NY. on the way to the meet from NJ i encountered slow moving and stop and go traffic which caused my temp gauge to go dead in the middle. it was blazing hot but i still put my heat on which helped a little bit. after the traffic broke up my temp went back to normal until my caravan got lost and had to turn around and wait in some stop and go for a few mins.

this is when my car officially overheated in the middle of a busy intersection. the engine struggled but i had no choice but to keep moving. once i made it threw the intersection and back onto the highway my engine showed less signs of struggle and proceeded to cool down so i kept going.

so heres the issue. my OEM t-stat is new and i had my headgasket tested a few months ago and it was good. although it could be a faulty t-stat what else could be the cause? im not losing coolant. could there be air pockets in the cooling system?

this only seems to happen during long drives combined with stop and go. the following week i drove about the same distance to philly and with a combination of highway driving and stop and go. and no problems. but yesterday was in the 80's and 90's. maybe that played a factor.

 

First make sure that the fan is turning on. If it is mabee the radiator needs to be cored out, it could be clogged...

 

ok will check that.

 

so i did my first test for troubleshooting the issues.

drove about 20 miles mixed with highway and stop and go. pulled into my garage and let it idle for 3 mins. the temperatures started to rise and reached a little over halfway on my gauge. but the fan never came on.

when i get to work. im gonna flush my radiator for the hell of it. but more than likely im just gonna buy a new fan switch and call it a day.

ill keep you guys updated.

 

Before you go and spend money on something you may not need you should find out what the problem is, maybe just a blown fuse.

Most Honda/Acura rad fans have 12V+ constant going directly to them the ground is supplied by the rad fan relay, the rad fan relay is controled by the ECTS that supplies the relays coil with a ground when engine coolant temperature hits around 190 degrees F.

Find the problem first, replacing parts until it works is only good if the first part you buy is the problem. 94

 

thanks ill try that.