It started at the end of last season and is getting worse. My idle will bounce between 1000-0rpm. It will stall out on me if I dont hold the gas pedal. It only happens while the engine is warming up, once it's at full operating temp it idles fine at 900rpm.
I've cleaned my FITV, IACV, no vacuum leaks, throttle cable doesn't seem to have any problems, cleaned my air filter. Most idle problems are the opposite of mine so i think its my tune.
My setup:
Stock GSR (w/ headstuds)
Hondata s300
Precision 750cc injectors
Hondata 4bar map sensor
Precision sc50 turbo

While tuning my tuner said he didn't like my idle AFR - it kept dropping to 10-11. At that time it made my idle bounce a little but now it keeps getting worse and worse.
Also it wont stay at steady idle until the engine is at full temp, like probably 180c. It takes me about 15minutes of driving to get to steady idle.

My tuner is not easy to get a hold of and likely not free to check things over, but do you think it's my idle tables in S300 or something else, thanks

 

Couple minor things to add I just thought of, I use 5w-50 - it's a 94 GSR so it doesn't smoke as much with this
My FPR shows a consistent 42psi on the gauge
Also bled the coolant for air bubbles

 

i have the same problem with my lsvtec turbo

 

same as above. ls/vtec turbo and bad idle. someone answer this

 

Well you said the tuner didn't like the idle while he was tuning it, so it's something on your end that is faulty which made tuning a little more difficult for him. This may sound like a jump, but maybe it's something with your ignition? Your ecu stalls if it knows it's running rich. If it were a big misfire, that would explain stalling which is why you have to give it gas to reach operating temps to go into closed loop mode. Once in closed loop, it will go by the tuned tables for a more stable idle...but that would be a hell of a misfire so i'm feeling doubtful on that idea, but i thought i'd try to help.

 

My ignition timing was done by the same tuner on a mustang dyno. But thanks for a response at least, I'll look into the timing and see if i find anything.

 

idk if you read it before or after my edit, but nonetheless it's edited. I was thinking more of a fault within the dizzy, not the ignition timing.

 

Wouldn't it stay in closed loop though and continue to cause the poor idle? Or once my engine is at full operating temp would it switch to open loop? I don't know this stuff confuses me.

 

your car is in open loop during warm up and WOT. When you're at operating temps and normal driving, your in closed loop (using sensors). I was thinking, once it gets the chance to get to closed loop, your afrs return to where they should be which makes everything stable. When you idle after your in operating temps, you're still in closed loop

 

I think its related to the fuel compensation table (correction table).