I replaced my brake shoes & drums yesterday and now the rear brakes dont work at all. The E-brake handle goes all the way up with no resistance at all. I didnt adjust the self-adjuster screw, but I figured since its called a "self" adjuster crew, I wouldnt have to. Do I? I also noticed a small amount of fluid coming out from under the rubber grommet thing on the cylinder, but I dismissed it as inconsequential(stupid). Do I have to adjust the screw myself so that the shoes drag lightly on the drum?

 

I always adjust the screw, I would recommend you to do it as well. As far as fluid coming out, you might have gotten air in the lines somehow.

 

I got it worked out. Why the hell is it called a self-adjusting screw? Theres a lever with a spring attached and everything... just doesnt work I guess?

 

The self adjuster has never worked for me, I have always had to adjust them manually. The best way to adjust the shoes is through the hole on the back plate (remove the rubber plug) with the drum on. It can be a serious PITA to do. You want the shoes to drag a bit, try to get it the same on both sides.

You probably maxed out the wheel cylinder, causing it to leak. If I were you I would take off the drums and inspect.

 

called a self adjuster because as your shoes wear down it adjusts it so that they still make contact w/ the drum. or else you would physically need to adjust them everytime you used them. it only adjusts them ever so slightly.

 

littel tiny drops behing the wheel cylinders is considered normal. if fluid pours out when you turn the boot inside out..then the wheel cylinder has to be replaced.

did you put your e-brake cable back on the e-brake strut? e-brake cable would have been the one cable with a spring around the cable.

you mgiht need to take your center console out and see if the actual lever is connected to the cable there. no resistance usually means that the cable isnot connected. two connection points are just what i mentioned there.

as for adjusting of your rear brakes. there is a hole on the backside like MCVTEC said. can be hard to access if you dont have a special tool (small screwdriver might work as well). You can also take the drum back off and turn the self-adjuster then put drum back on. it will be adjusted properly when you can spin the drum by hand a 1/2 turn. nothing more nothing less.

the self adjuster is just that. it self adjusts. the motion of the shoes will turn the self adjsuter. it will only work if the self-adjuter is free of debris and can spin easilly. it also only adjusts when you are in reverse and tehn the stopping motion will click the self adjuster one turn tightening the shoes. you can floor your car in reverse then stop suddenly and they will self adjust, but one click at a time.

 

I got everything sorted out with the brakes. E-brake gets tight at 7-8 clicks, no shh-shh-shh noise while rolling slowly, its all good. I just had to adjust the screws.
Oh and the fluid the I mentioned was just a tiny bit under the boot, it doesnt drip or anything.

 

no.. there shouldent be anything coming out of the "little rubber boots" theres 2 seals on the pistons of the cylinders for a reason.. kno why? so it doesnt leak anything the first (piston seal) one is to keep any brake fluid that leaks around the piston on that side and the second ("dust cover") boot is to keep brake dust away from the piston seal.. its not to hold brake fluid..
replace your wheel cylinder or its gonna keep leaking and your gonna have to do it later anyway..

 

Taken straight from this website. Also My ASE test Preparation guide for A5: brakes says the same exact thing. http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf10216.htm





"When checking for leaking it is important to understand what you are looking at when checking for leaks.

What defines a leaking wheel cylinder? One of the first things to understand is it is normal to see some dampness inside a wheel cylinder. This usually shows up as a light sheen on the cylinder bore or piston. This is normal. While the industry has agreed that a "leaking" wheel cylinder is reason to require replacement, nobody has stepped up to the plate and defined what "leaking" means. I use the approach that if I get one drop or more when I pull the dust boot back, it is considered a leaking wheel cylinder (See Figure 1)."





And do you know why A.S.E allows a little bit of seeping? Because not only does brake fluid have a high boil point....it also lubricates the braking system.