just picked up my 92 dx hatch with a 96 b18b1 in it, the car supposedly has b16 pistons and seems to be really healthy. I have plans on setting the car up for touge and use it as a fun dd and commuter with nitrous for the weekends.

heres what I got so far:
gsr tranny
b18b1 96 with p30 slugs
jg eddelbrock header
short ram intake
innovative mounts

I want to get:
8lb flywheel and newer stage 2 exedy clutch
Im looking at the crower 402's because I wanna keep it basic and not have to replace the valve springs. but I don't know if they are too mild.


Im planning on putting most of my money and work into the suspension to have a fun back road car, I know the real power will be made on the bottle, but looking for any easy horsepower tips for the ls. not really wanting to go vtec. just cause Im a little in to having something different.

any input will be appreciated.

 

Why dont you just put a b16 head on it an go ls/vtec to save a **** load of money? I mean you already have b16 piston's in the block. Pick up a b16 head for 300-400 bux. Pick up a stealthmodepreformance ls/vtec oil line kit for $50. Go over to golden eagle an get two dowel pins for $30 from full-race. Then get an oem ls headgasket an call it a day. You would pick up 20-30hp from doing that head swap.

Use the search key an look up bambam's post on how to build an ls/vtec. Or you could do the build you want but I was just trying to save you some cash that you could use to put in to your suspension setup.

 

Iv already had a ls/vtec and know how to build on. I just want to keep this ls. every one has a ls or gsr. and its for a good reason. I just like being the under dog. the car I miss most was my stock d16z6 turbo coupe, 14.7 psi tuned ebay kit made 235 whp. and it was a stupid sohc. I just wanna have a stupid Ls that people get pissed when they loose to it.

 

on a roll.


I have experience with 403's and 404's and they were both perfectly streetable (on the motor alone), and mileage wise was actually not that bad if it matters. I know your motor will see some nitrous so 402's would probably do just fine. Im not an nos guy, so I dont know about the 403's/4's with that. I do know crower makes a profile for turbo or nitrous. I would plan to change out the stock ls valvesprings regardless, but I dont have experience w/the 402's. On my ls I used cam gears and an fpr as well. I would also consider an IM and TB. Not sure what the collector and exhaust size on the car is but it would obviously benifit from a bigger exhaust. Not sure about what you use for engine management but plan to tune this as well.

 

I would suggest atleast new springs and retainers if your doing a cam swap. Racing at the track puts the hurt on your valve train.

Honestly I like your approach.. LS's are killer little motors and are fun with bolt ons. I would put the bottle on it and have fun.

I have a like new NOS brand nitrous setup for sale if your interested. Has wot switch, nitrous solenoid, all wiring and bottle. All you would need is bracket and fuel solenoid if you wish to run a wet kit.

 

thanks alot guys. I already have my wet kit. and I will be tuning the motor myself. I have an eprom burner and a wideband, Iv done a few turbo cars with nate of nsr-tech, but nothing on my own. so I wanna keep it pretty simple. If I really do need valve springs and retainers then it looks like I might go with some 404's then. just wanna have a strong torquey street motor that will be simple and get the job done. I know theres no way I will have the fastest car but i just want something thats enjoyable.

 

O my motor also has a fpr on it and a pressure gauge. they came on it. and its always good to know your fuel pressure with n2o.

the stock intake mani looks like it should flow pretty good. and I dont really wanna go to a big throttle body because Iv heard alot of times you will loose bottom end power, which is what I want out of this motor. If I can get it around 140-150 whp on the motor Id be happy I think.

 

I had a shitload of money in my old LS set-up. Head was ported with Crower 402 cams etc...

Huge waste of money and my biggest mistake so far since i have been messing with Hondas.

LS head is fine for boost but when it comes to N/A go VTEC. Its too easy and cheap not to.

 

I have a fully built ls all motor with stage 3 n/a crower cams and made 167hp and 124ft lbs tq

 

Im not going to be attempting to compete with the NA class of cars. just have a healthy motor off of spray and a pretty decent car on the bottle.

I know it will take alot more work to get a ls any where near a stock ls vtec build. just want something a little different with real good torque and a good powerband

 

whats your definition of fully built. and list specs please



also is there any other companies that make ls cams besides crower?

 

a stock ls/vtec with stock ls internals and a stock head will only put about 150whp from what other people have done.

i have a full crower valvetrain with 403's, cam gears and dual valvesprings and ti retainers, i havent got them on yet because i want to get the 404's and get a b20 block before i get it built and then some rs machine 84.5 type r pistons...should be alot more fun than trying to go ls/vtec and i will be able to rev to 8500 rpm and stay up with mild built ls/vtec or turbo sohc's and the best part is that its still only a non-vtec motor haha

 

sounds cool but If I was revvin that high I would do a vtec oil and water pump with arp rod bolts.

 

CP 12.5:1
eagle rods
balanced
pure tunning ported head
crower valve train
big valves

 

not exactly fully built. I think that term should be reserved for an 87m sleeved motor on race gas. just my opinion though