I've recently swapped a b16a2 on my 97 ek hatch. im getting tps sensor code 7. i've just put in a new tps sensor. when i move it around, but i can never get where the car would run right. anyone know how to adjust the tps sensor? i tried moving it, tighten bolts....testing the car...but rpm always drops low and comes back up....most of the times, when the car reached the normal operating temp, it shuts off when rpm drops after letting off the throttle.

as for the vtec...i got a 96-98 engine harness, the one with no vtec.....the guy who gave it to me was running a obd2a ecu and wired up the vtec himself on his swap same engine as mine and everything was working correctly. Im currently running a obd1 p72 ecu with a jumper harness. do i have to rewire the vtec on the engine harness? or just plug and play with the obd1 Ecu w/ jumper harness?

 

bump, anyone?? hate driving my car when it feels like it gonna shut off every time i let off the gas. and alot of the times it does shut off. i tried moving tps different positions...but car still does it..in some positions its worse and others it helps but still there.

 

Did you replace the whole throttle body?

 

no, didnt change throttle body, only replaced the TPS sensor. Car is running like crap....only codes it get is 7 and 21, 22......

 

have you messed with the idle adjustment screw?

 

only checked it and was screwed tight. didnt try loosing it. ill try messing with it later on.

 

Your idle screw should never be closed. Try opening that up a bit.

 

ok, ill try that when i have time....as of now...the code for the tps is gone....but the idle is still screwed up...same thing..surges all the time...even when in throttle but its hard to feel it. I keep pedal in place, and u can feel the car surging a bit. when i left of throttle rpm drops and sometimes car shuts off. codes i have now is 21, 23
i've always had code 23 as knock sensor isnt wired up on my p72, car always ran fine when i had it on my obd1.

 

Try when you have time? On the list of mechanical challenges, loosening a screw 1/4 turn is about as easy as it gets.

 

hook up a scanner with live data. and move it till it hits 10% then pin your two wire connecter in the pass side of the car by the ecu. unplug the iac valve. then start the car. set base idle at 720 rpms. turn off car then un plug pin and plug back iac. set timing to 16deg btc or 12deg btc what ever your car calls for. car off pull ecu fuse 2 mins install fuse start car. let idle 10mins then turn on lights 2 mins, turn off light 2 mins turn on a/c on 2 mins turn off a/c let idle 2 mins. then turn off car.

if idle is still messed up. take intake off and plug the fast idle thermo valve hole when car is hot . of it fixes it then its the FITV done -EAF-

 

someone help him

i can't help those that won't help themselves

 

yea, hardly at home....car is just parked, i got full time job, school, 2 side jobs, repairing computers and installing FTAs from dish w/ all channels.....i was able to mess with that screw and test the car, still the same, rpm still surges no matter what rpm..if i give it full throttle, u cant really feel any surge...it feels like it runs good.....car wont turn off if i keep the screw on the throttle body open, but it does raise my idle over about 1100-1200, i just left it a lil open...like 1-2 turns open from a fully closed position.....idle still surging and rpm still drops specially when letting off the throttle....

ill try unpluging the fitv while car is at normal operating temp once i get my car back, damn cops towed it because someone around where i parked it complained about my alarm, that it kept ringing all the time. is that possible? can they towed it for that reason?

 

im confused with what u telling me...and i do not own a scanner with live data. and with this lil incident on my car being towed for alarm going off.....left me broke.....i tried unplugging the IAC but it didnt really do anything...idle still surges.